Refinishing Antique Radio Cabinets

I've been restoring antique radios as a hobby for a number of years, and have had reasonably good success using Minwax stains and coatings. But one problem that has always bugged me is the inability to match the depth of the original color. On most cabinets from the 40s and earlier, the coloring is in the finish itself - the wood itself is not stained at all. A fellow radio enthusiast has told me that Mohawk toners are what the professionals use to replicate the original deep, rich color. I'm considering ordering some of these but first, I'd like some advice. First of all, which kind? There are pigment-based and dye-based, and perhaps others just from Mohawk alone. Second, is the toner spray enough to produce the desired effect, or should the wood also be stained prior to toning? And finally, is there a better way to make a thick, rich-looking top coat other than applying 6-8 coats of conventional finish? This is obviously going to take some practice so I could use any advice I can get.
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"Chris F." wrote in message

IIRC, there is a guy that posted recently on abpw named "Stewart Schooley", who posted some masterful restoration work he does on antique radios. The subject had to do with "Roll top desks..." and it was around the first week of the month.
You might want to head over there and see if your news server still has them retained, or at least DAGS the name and see if you can contact him.
Would be worth it, IIRC.
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try here: http://pages.cthome.net/ptf/photofin/photofinish.html
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You can use dyes from Homestead finishing (Transtint) and they can be added to most clear finishes such as lacquer, poly, shellac. Mix it darker and you need fewer coats. Getting even coats is very important and that is one reason to go with a lighter mix and more coats so mistakes are less dramatic and can be evened out with subsequent coats.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
Chris F. wrote:

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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Thanks for that link... very useful to me. Those colours look fabulous, I'll get that sample pack. Must be easier than LV's analines?
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You can use dyes from Homestead finishing (Transtint) and they can be added to most clear finishes such as lacquer, poly, shellac. Mix it darker and you need fewer coats. Getting even coats is very important and that is one reason to go with a lighter mix and more coats so mistakes are less dramatic and can be evened out with subsequent coats.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
Chris F. wrote:

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You can use dyes from Homestead finishing (Transtint) and they can be added to most clear finishes such as lacquer, poly, shellac. Mix it darker and you need fewer coats. Getting even coats is very important and that is one reason to go with a lighter mix and more coats so mistakes are less dramatic and can be evened out with subsequent coats.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
Chris F. wrote:

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Chris, if you're interested in foreign makes, I have a Grundig console, ca. 1960s I think, from Germany, you can have... free. I tried giving it away a year ago via online sites, but no takers. It's a nice console in good shape, that why I haven't junked it. The stereo still works. The turntable needs work...no needle and no needle casing. If you know of anyone that might be interested in this sort of thing, I prefer giving it away, rather than tossing it out. Pics are readily obtainable, if need be.
Sonny
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Thanks but I think I'll pass, I have one of those myself in really nice shape and I don't think it's of any greater value. I could pick it up if you lived in NB, otherwise the shipping would be too expensive.

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You're welcome. It's stored and out of my way. Maybe someday someone will get it. I'm in south central Louisiana. Sonny
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