Once again appealing to the collective knowledge of the rec. In
restoring a Craftsman 100 table saw (with help from earlier
posts-thanks) the top has some deep scractches, gouges. I have looked
at posts and suggestions for steelwool, scotch brite and even lite
sanding and have the top clean at this point. At the risk of trying to
polish a sows ear, has anyone taken enough material off a table to
begin to remove dings that may be 1/64th of an inch deep? If so, how
can I do this without putting the flatness of the table at risk?
Because of one stuck crank handle, I cannot remove the top for any
machining and I am not looking to spend a lot of money, just some
sweat. I can live with the top as is, if necessary, but with everything
else looking pretty good and the saw cutting sweet, would like to see
that "new" cast iron look or close if possible. TIA
It ain't worth it, imo. Part of the "character" of a piece of
equipment. If it doesn't affect the function, don't see much (any?)
Only way w/o affecting flatness is to remove material over the entire
surface (obviously). Only really practical way to do that is w/ surface
grinder which is doable but will cost what the saw is worth or more.
On Wed, 07 Sep 2005 19:21:12 -0500, Duane Bozarth wrote:
The original surface was probably Blanchard ground (mine is).
Still, not worth doing.
If the grooves are actually 1/64" deep, it's not likely he'll live long
enough to get them out with hand stones and then return the top to flat.
That's an art all to itself.
You didn't mention if the scratch has any raised ridges at the wall of the
scratch. If it does, you should take the effort to get rid of the ridges so
it doesn't scratch your wood. You can do this with careful use of a sharp
mill file. Otherwise, I'm with the others - leave it alone.
You can clean your cast iron top to make it shiny again and the scratch may
hardly be noticeable.
You could always bondo the top, then sand back down to
bare metal, the bondo will fill the nicks/gouges, then paste wax
the entire thing. Would be smooth and SLICK, but you could probably
see the bondo so it would NOT be pretty
Thanks for a lot of information to consider. Never thought about the
miter groove issue if a lot of material was removed. Trying to use the
best of all the information provided, I hit three areas with JB Weld
(found some in my shop), sanded with 150 grit in a orbital (just a few
passes) then some scotchbrite on a block to remove any surface JB Weld
residue and a buff with Top Coat (I can not find my can of Johnsons
paste wax I have had for 30 years anywhere--doh-). Smooth, no catches
and ready to cut. You all are a great resource, I will be a woodworker
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