recommend router table


Hi All,
I need a good router table that will stand up to light-2-moderate useage. I'm really don't want to go over $200-250 if I can possibly help it.
What brand/model would you folks recommend?
Tim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

A homebuilt one, made exactly to your specifications. Here's one example: <URL:http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html
I built one similar to Norm's first design. The updated version is here: <URL:http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0301
--
Chuck Taylor
http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact /
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Check the archives. Tom
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
How does one check the archives?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Go to Goggle Groups and use the search function.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Go to Goggle Groups and use the search function.
It works, thanks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If you have a table saw you can do what I did. You can use your table saw fence as your router table fence. As much as I would like to take credit for the idea, it is very common in the small woodshop. Heck, David Marks does the same thing.
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/woodshop.htm
It will cost you well under your $200 budget.
If you are going to build your own table, I highly recommend an aluminum plate (will support the heaviest of routers with no warping).
I bought this one: http://www.woodpeck.com/aluminsert.html It is a good idea to buy it first and build your router table top around it, not the other way around.
good luck with our decision.
--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Clicking on the right side of the table saw should bring up this:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/router_page.htm
--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'm such a goof. That was supposed to be Your decision, not our decision. My Y didn't work, and I don't know WHY.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Stoutman mis-typed:> good luck with our decision.
I thought it was appropos. Tom
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

When I used a featherboard attached to the fence to keep some stock down, I had a problem of it pushing the fence up. It is fine sideways, but being clamped to the table saw fence, it is just too easy to rotate. I don't know what to do about that, except maybe clamping the router fence to the table once I have it in the right position. Anyone else have this problem?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I have built several over the years. They were Ok, but it is hard to level the plate and if you add things like a T-track it adds up quickly. I finally broke down and purchased a Bench Dog Becnch Top model. It is in your price range and does not take up much space. It has an aluminum miter slide and T-track included. It also has a metal based fence with a T-track and dust port. I put this on my list of tools I wish I would have purchased a long time ago. Good Luck, Herb.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I would recommend the Rockler router table top and build your own base. I have owned one for ~6 months, and have been very pleased with it. Very easy to build custom fences, and comes with a 1/4" alumin router plate (you select it, very suitable for <=2hp routers).
Downside is fence adjustment. Just a couple of slots in the table to align the aluminum fence, so bumping ( and re-bumping) is necessary to align. The top is really not that hard to make, but with the included fence and accesories, I don't think I could have built it for much cheaper.
http://tinyurl.com/etgky
-- Carl

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It's not the router table that'll cost you- it's the fence system - ala JoinTech and Incra.
I've got the former - specidically the Cabinet Maker System. Kicks up the "router table" capabilities up a few notches. Specific examples - the fence is split into infeed and outfeed each moveable independently - allowing for light duty joining - replacable inexpensive zero clearance inserts between the two fences... You can flip one over and therefore have two profiles per insert. An easily cut zero clearance stops the bit from pulling the leading corner behind the fence and doing something like snipe on a planer Also reduces splintering at the start of a pass. - fence can be moved "in" or "out" in 0.001 incrments so you can sneak up on dadoes and rabbe/rebates for non-standard (ie 1/2", 3/4" and the "plywodd thickness" special bits that may or may not match the plywood YOU are using) stock. Also really handy when using Drawer Lok and Lock Miter bits where bit height and bit exposure are critical to a good fit. - do half blind and through dovetails, "outlined" dovetails )
If you've got a decent plunge router you really don't NEED a router raising and lowering device like the RouterRazor etc.
Made your choices more difficult? Sorry - but a good fence system can save you a ton of grief over a nudge/bump and C-clamp in place fence with a 1" opening in its face for the bit.
charlie b
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

get the freud, russso, rockler or whatever. At that price range I think you could possibly be best served by a mixed approach. Build your own but get a nice lift or at least plate. And buy the fence. I spent about $30 on a plate, $90 on a fence and who knows how much on hardware and melamine for the top. The table is built into my table saw. Has a switch on the side, remote from the router, and dust collection below and in the fence. All told I'm probably out $200 to $250 and I have a pretty decent setup. What I would really like is a lift so I can adjust from up top w/o having to lift the router out of the table but oh well. Check Rockler for parts, I got my Russou (spelling?) plate and fence at woodcraft (I'm sure I over paid).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That's not enough for a router table, although you can build a decent one for that money. For a poor-man's table, you can use a piece of ply with a hole in the middle and clamp on a straight edge. I built a router table and used Norm's plan with a few custom modifications. Building it was a fun project. I put an extra electrical outlet on the front of the cabinet which proved to be very useful. All these parts add up; probably spent around $300.
A sheet of 3/4" ply, $60 A sheet of MDF, $35 Router plate, $50 Switch, outlets, wiring, electrical boxes, plates, $35 PVC pipe, $12 Miter track, $40 Leveling feet, $8 One pair drawer slides, $25 Oak (for trim), $25 Laminate and contact cement, $25 1/4" Plexiglass, $10 Magnet catches for Plexiglass, $3 Scrap wood pieces
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thus you will have the same router table as most commercial shops do. Or, you can spend up to a thousand dollars for an amateur table.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.