Re: Will this work?

I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I

> want it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would > preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How > about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue > them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long > pieces underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness > down to give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be > very obvious and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me > know if I'm missing something!

I've done exactly the same thing, works fine.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

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dadiOH
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yep. 3 flipper doors, with slideout shelves for everything so i don't have to move it to get to the cabling. actually, about 9 months ago i asked about horizontal flipper door mechanisms, and this was the application and final result.

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time i used bloodwood. it has a very interesting smell that made me hungry when i was milling it up.

it was also the first time i just started cutting parts without a plan, just a few measurements for width of doors and depth. the only requirement from swmbo was to not have glass doors so she didn't have to see the equipment. my cats like to sleep on the open doors.

regards, charlie

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Charles Spitzer

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in news:d7kq7i$jt2$ snipped-for-privacy@transfer.stratus.com:

The notion of working from a rough sketch and a requirement adds a certain thrill to the project. Krenov describes something similar (on his plane, not mine ;-)) in one or two of his books. When you only have a limited amount of a certain wood, and getting something from another plank would make it look different, it either succeeds or fails.

Sort of the cabinetmaker's version of working without a net.

Patriarch

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Patriarch

If that's the case, I've had plenty of thrills in the shop! :)

Dave

Patriarch wrote:

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David

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