Re: Why not use a dado blade?

Leon wrote:

I don't think that's right. Let's take some big numbers to make it clearer: you set the jig so the blade is 2" away from the face of the jig. You run a 3" thick piece through it, once from each side. Ignoring the saw kerf, you end up with a 1" tenon. Now you run a 4" thick piece through it, once from each side. Both cuts are 2" from the sides, i.e. right in the middle. No tenon.
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Nope I do this all the time. I am probably not making myself clear... Watch how Norm does it... Thickness has no effect on the tennon width.
The distance from the blade to the outer tennon cheek is always the same if you cut on the outside of the board. Basically the side of the board closest to the blade. Regardless of thickness, the saw cuts in the same place unless you make adjustments.
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Ok this is getting funny... we are knocking heads
Try it on your saw... if you don't have a jig, simply try it with your fence and a 1x board on edge. Be sure that most the board is between the fence and the blade. Rip a line. Turn the board around and rip another line. Now do the same with a piece of 2x stock and if you do it right or under stood me correctly,, you'll see that both left over tennons on each board is the same width.
Remember to cut on the side closest to the blade if you cut on the side clossest to the jig or fence the tennon will change in size if you change thicknesses of boards.
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