Re: Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi

Page 1 of 2  

Just checked out the Panasonic web site. First thing that struck me were the prices! $510 for the top cordless drill model (15.6V Multi Drill & Driver with 1/2" Keyless Chuck). As you say, all nice and compact. But the high price made me think that Panasonic tools must be an elite brand. Then checked out prices for these very same Panasonic models at several online retail tool vendor sites, where I found the prices to be much more in line with the competition. For example only $299 (virtually half the price) for the above model at Tool Authority (http://www.toolauthority.com/manufacturers.php?MID !). One observation though, in general the Panasonic cordless driver lineup seems to offer somewhat less torque than competition such as Hitachi or Bosch drivers, even in models where the voltages are the same. But I guess the extra compact design of the Panasonic drivers I guess could very well account for this.
BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on) rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both, amp and voltage numbers? Thanks.
Ken

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Up til now I had just assumed

The AH rating is how much power is available. Some tools use that power more efficiently than others.
None can truly keep up with a corded tool long term. They may have equal power for a short time, but there are compromises to get decent run time from the batteries.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote in message

Going to be interesting to see how the new Milwaukee V28 Ion line holds up.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I love the Pit Stop and Helicopter commercials. Check their web page if you haven't seen them. http://www.v28power.com/flash.htm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hadn't seen the helipcopter commercial before. Thanks for the link. :-)
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Consumer reports says that the drill they tested had quite a bit of power. So much so that it burned out its motor during their test.
Ouch.
Greg Guarino
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
KMoiarty wrote:

You are right that amp-hours is a measure of battery capacity. But it's amps X hours instead of amps per hour. So, a 2 amp-hour battery will deliver 2 amps for 1 hour or 1 amp for 2 hours (at its rated voltage). Amp-hours gives you a measure of run-time, but I think it's irrelevant to most of us. That's because, unless your drill is in continuous use at high load, your second battery will charge long before your first runs down. I guess if you have to climb down off a ladder every time you need to change batteries, more amp-hours would get to be more important.
I'm on my 5th cordless drill and currently own three that work. Of all my tools, I consider a cordless drill to be the most indispensable. I use one for almost every single project around the house or in the shop.
However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat disposable item, unlike its corded cousin.
For $120 or so, you can buy a top quality 12 volt drill from your favorite manufacturer. Forget the specs, buy the one that feels best in your hand. Then spend another $100 or so for a good corded drill for those very rare occasions when your cordless just isn't up to the task. You'll pass the corded drill down to your grandchildren, and you have less than half the money tied up in disposables.
Some people just like to have the "best" of whatever they own. I'm one of those too. But I've come to the conclusion that chasing the "best" in cordless is just too expensive.
Your mileage may vary
DonkeyHody "Give a hungry man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him to fish . . . and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day."
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ken,
Listen to DonkeyHody, best advice here.
I did what he talks about only I'll go one better, buy a top quality corded drill at a used tool store, I got a Milwaukee 1/2" corded hole shooter for 60 bucks at a used tool store and I found a Dewalt 3/8" 14.4 volt cordelss at the local home center one day for 100 bucks with two batteries/charger. Total investment 160 bucks,
A used Milwaukee (corded) drill is a good investment, these things are like tanks, they'll outlive our kids kids.
My two cents,
Paul

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Wow... agree with everyone here. I have spent $$$ on different cordless drills, and they are something I use every day.
Years ago, I bought a 14V Ryobi for $99, as I could not justify buying the 18V DeWalt I really wanted for $329. I bought the DeWalt when there was a sale on them for $299 or something like that. Along the way, I got a great deal on a 14V Sears Professional 14V and bought a Hitachi 12V for some reason or another.
All but the Sears Professional (the newest) are dead now. The batteries/drills lasted about 3-4 years a piece, with the last year or so of each needing the second battery to be on the ready at any time. Oddly, the one that was used the hardest was the Ryobi, and it still works for my roofing guys to use to drive about 25 1/2" screws before dying. Perfect for them, as it is covered with tar and scuffed beyond recognition. That drill has paid for itself about 100 times over.
The DeWalt 18V was the one I used the most, and you will come to appreciate the amp hour rating when you are hanging and finishing doors. Drilling out a door lockset, the the deadbolt, the peephole, the extra security devices, attaching the closer and then fitting the hinges is not for a weenie drill. The DeWalt worked great, and it last about 3 years with me using it just like a corded drill. But when the batteries died to about 20 minutes of use and I was contemplating a new battery, the transmission gears gave up, so now I am using the Sears. The Sears has the same amount of torque and it is a smaller drill. It seems to have about the same battery life, and it was on sale for $99 in the display/scratch/dent basket when I bought it. It seems to be a pretty good drill.
So I agree with all here. Find a drill that feels good in your hand, and seems to have some balance. If you are using it for home projects and need it to drive 40-50 screws and drill a few holes every once in a while, almost anything you buy will be fine. One of my subs even buys those $19 POS drills at Harbor Freight and loves them since they are so cheap. He has to charge them for six hours or something along those lines, but they seem pretty tough.
Robert
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I bought a Rdgid 12V at HD. Lifetime service warranty which incudes the battery. Plenty of power, nice chuck. Recommended.
Mitch
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
MB wrote:

I forgot about Rigid. As long as their lifetime warranty applies to batteries, they get my vote on cordless, assuming you like the tool at all.
DonkeyHody "We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that is in it - and stop there; lest we be like the cat that sits down on a hot stove-lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove-lid again---and that is well; but also she will never sit down on a cold one anymore." - Mark Twain
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Made 100% in China, looks ok...runs fine for a homeowner.
for someone that makes his living with his tools, we would pass.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

But what isn't made in China these days? For example, Hitachi is a well known Japanese manufacturer whose respectable-quality products we naturally expect, logically enough, to be made in Japan. But not so with my new Hitachi (model WH 14DMR) impact driver. At the bottom of the specs label situated on the housing it reads (in finer print than everything above it), "Made in China".
Ken
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Point taken, but if you CAN buy something still made here, and its rock solid, why not?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with the lithium batteries etc.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@mi.sig wrote:

Uhh, assuming the battery packs were built using standard cell sizes. My 18V battery packs certainly don't look like they contain 15 AA cells inside (AAA won't provide enough current).
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
upand_at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

www.digikey.com and www.mouser.com sell replacement batteries in these sizes and will even spot weld them to the correct config you give them so you don't have to try soldering them (bad). Lithium Ion batteries are still hard to find though. I priced out what it would cost to rebuild my 8 year old 9.6v makita packs when they started getting to where they wouldn't hold a charge for very long a couple years ago (bought the drill in 95). A new battery cost $29 then and to buy the cells it would cost me $24 per pack plus shipping to get them to me. I just bought a couple new battery packs and bought the angle drill kit which gave me another charger and battery so I now have three batteries and a couple chargers plus the various drills and saws I've picked up over the last 10 years which all share the same pack type. I put the old batteries away so when i do need to rebuild the new ones, I'll just rebuild all 5 at once as the cost of a new pack has gone up to $39.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
upand_at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com says...

Most battery packs take what's called a "sub-C" cell. These are standard sizes, just not what you're used to from the bunny.
BTW, I bought a Porter-Cable 14.4V driver to supliment my 12V Makita (batteries going) a couple of years ago. The PC driver is quite nice, as are the other PC tools I've bought.
--
Keith

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@mi.sig wrote:

You may be able to do that, but I don't think it's a viable option for most of us. First problem is getting into the plastic battery case. Mine seems to be fused together with no way to get in without destroying it. Next problem is where to get replacement batteries of the correct dimensions and voltages. Not saying it can't be done, I'm just not sure it's worth the trouble.
DonkeyHody "We talk about the Good Old Days, but we weren't Good, we weren't Old, and we're talking about the Nights."
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

This seems similar to a challenge I had to get inside and repair a sealed fan speed-control switch for my car (for which used parts are now rare and new ones are unreasonably expensive, plus take ages to arrive after placing in an order). In this case I carefully cut the plastic casing open with a blade-shaped hot soldering iron tip. Then after fixing the insides, I resealed the case by again using soldering iron (with a different tip) to meld edges back together again. Didn't look very neat, but it's concealed from view and it did the trick.

Look for an electronic technician's supply outlet. There's at least one in the town where I live which carries a whole assortment of such rechargeable batteries and can order in anything you don't see on the shelf.

You're right. Unless you have the time to tinker and you just happen to derive enjoyment from such challenges, it is probably is not worth your trouble; especially if you rely on the tool for professional work and therefore can't tolerate the occasional unexpected 'surprise'. For example, discovering while busy on the job that your battery-case re-sealing work could have been reinforced or strengthened better to prevent the seam from splitting open after an accidental, but routinely common, fall to the floor... On the other hand, if you intend to replace batteries this way into the future, once you get the knack of it, or with refinement of technique along with greater efficiency and practicality gained from further practice and experience, one may decide it to be worth one's while in the long run, I don't know.
Ken
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.