Go buy/rent/borrow a gear puller.
I remove stubborn pulleys from machinery all the time at work with a gear
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq /
Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
Disregard, some EXTREME persusian with a 3' pry bar, a shattered
pulley wall and some innovative ways to use wrenches slide the pulley
off. The pulley was aluminum and it had rotated to partially absorb
Tomorrow I go buy a machined pulley for the arbor and slide it on, at
least I hope it will slide on. The WWII arrives tommorrow as well.
BUT since I also "play" with cars (another hobby) not having "pullers"
around the shop is kind of strange....
Just wondering just how many woodworkers do not have at least one in
their wood shops... ? Personally I use then quite a lot in the
woodshop...but maybe its because I love tinkering with machines...
A new key will be under a $1. Well under.
Using a gear puller on that pulley might be problematic without
removing the arbor from the saw. On my saw, the sheet metal of the
saw base would prevent me from using one. There's simply not enough
room to put it on and then turn the screw.
Greetings and Salutations....
On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:35:37 -0500, Lazarus Long
What about cranking the arbor over to 45
degrees? Would that not rotate the pully down
so it would be possible to get enough clearance to
use the puller?
Also, FWIW, there is a tool used to separate
ball joints from the support arm in auto suspensions
that would likely work. It is a wedge, with a slot
cut out of the center, so it will fit around the
shaft. One simply puts it in place and pounds.
The ball joint pops right out.
Now, because the saw is a bit different,
I would likely cut a hardwood wedge to match,
and slide it on so that I had a flat surface
bearing against the pully. I also suspect I would
try a heavy "C" clamp to push the two wedges together
instead of pounding. I would, though, likely tap
firmly on the wedge, if necessary. One does
not want to use a 10 lb sledge here, as one does not
want to bend the shaft, or, knacker up the bearings,
but, a certain amount of delicate hammering would
not be out of line.
Of course, if you don't know what "a certain
amount" would be...perhaps you should not do it.
Glad tos see, though, from another post, that
the pully did finally come off. That sort of thing
can be a real frustration when trying to rebuild
equipment. I expect the machined steel pully,
along with a link-belt drive, will be a big improvement
for the saw.
I always forget about this. This might be possible.
I used one of those many years ago for exactly that task. It's called
a pickle fork, or was at the place I rented it from.
the slotted wooden wedges you mention as functioning like about sounds
If worst comes to worst, these factory pulleys are only die cast
aluminum or zinc, cutting them off (avoid cutting into the arbor)
wouldn't be out of the question if need be.
Back when I did my saw the pulley came straight off without much extra
persuasion. The steel pulleys and link belt ARE an improvement.
I used one about 20 years ago. At this point, it's doubtful I'll ever
use one again. I seem to remember that the car dealer wasn't keen on
selling a ball joint, they seemed to think I'd buy a whole control
I have a couple gear pullers for such occassions, but the clearances
into the saw preclude all but the very shortest of shaft varietes.
Will have to go to a tool house and buy one for future uses.
The second problem was keeping the shaft from turning. When I got
enough torque on the pulley with a pair of vise grips, it loosed the
blade nut instead! The gear puller would have exerted at least as
much rotational force as my pliers did.
I removed the arbor from the saw on Friday night. Upon examination of
the bearings, they were both worn out. Both had some "tick" to them,
one was without lube, the other quite gritty in feel. They have both
been replaced with new NSK for about $12.00 from the local bearing
Today I had a friend pick up a new arbor pulley from WMH warehouse in
Auburn WA. The Jet tech said it was machined, but I have my doubts.
Approx $18.00 for the pulley. Hopefully will have it tomorrow.
I reinstalled the arbor with the two bearings. I was unable to locate a
wrench that would allow me to tighten the "special" nut as a means of
drawing the arbor into the second bearing. Instead I had to use a hard
plastic hammer to drive the arbor most of the way. Then a steel hammer
to tap it the last couple of tenths.
The WWII is mounted to the arbor and I see a variation of approx 8
thousands measuring on the sides of the teeth. -5/+3 I will try to
measure the runout on the blade flange tomorrow again. I believe the
motor weight also makes a slight adjustment to the arbor as having the
weight on the pulley through the belt likely causes some deflection.
The WWII is a most impressive feeling blade, very stout, sharper than
any cutting tool I've drug a fingerprint across. Perhaps in a few days
I will be able to use it.
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