Re: urgent-getting arbor pulley off of Jet table saw

Dear Alan,
Go buy/rent/borrow a gear puller.
I remove stubborn pulleys from machinery all the time at work with a gear puller.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
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Disregard, some EXTREME persusian with a 3' pry bar, a shattered pulley wall and some innovative ways to use wrenches slide the pulley off. The pulley was aluminum and it had rotated to partially absorb the keyway.
Tomorrow I go buy a machined pulley for the arbor and slide it on, at least I hope it will slide on. The WWII arrives tommorrow as well.
Alan
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I would consider a new key as well.
John
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BUT since I also "play" with cars (another hobby) not having "pullers" around the shop is kind of strange....
Just wondering just how many woodworkers do not have at least one in their wood shops... ? Personally I use then quite a lot in the woodshop...but maybe its because I love tinkering with machines...
Bob Griffiths
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A new key will be under a $1. Well under.
Using a gear puller on that pulley might be problematic without removing the arbor from the saw. On my saw, the sheet metal of the saw base would prevent me from using one. There's simply not enough room to put it on and then turn the screw.
wrote:

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    Greetings and Salutations....
On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:35:37 -0500, Lazarus Long

    What about cranking the arbor over to 45 degrees? Would that not rotate the pully down so it would be possible to get enough clearance to use the puller?     Also, FWIW, there is a tool used to separate ball joints from the support arm in auto suspensions that would likely work. It is a wedge, with a slot cut out of the center, so it will fit around the shaft. One simply puts it in place and pounds. The ball joint pops right out.     Now, because the saw is a bit different, I would likely cut a hardwood wedge to match, and slide it on so that I had a flat surface bearing against the pully. I also suspect I would try a heavy "C" clamp to push the two wedges together instead of pounding. I would, though, likely tap firmly on the wedge, if necessary. One does not want to use a 10 lb sledge here, as one does not want to bend the shaft, or, knacker up the bearings, but, a certain amount of delicate hammering would not be out of line.     Of course, if you don't know what "a certain amount" would be...perhaps you should not do it.     Glad tos see, though, from another post, that the pully did finally come off. That sort of thing can be a real frustration when trying to rebuild equipment. I expect the machined steel pully, along with a link-belt drive, will be a big improvement for the saw.     Regards     Dave Mundt
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On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:50:26 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@esper.com (Dave Mundt) wrote:

I always forget about this. This might be possible.

I used one of those many years ago for exactly that task. It's called a pickle fork, or was at the place I rented it from.
the slotted wooden wedges you mention as functioning like about sounds interesting too.
If worst comes to worst, these factory pulleys are only die cast aluminum or zinc, cutting them off (avoid cutting into the arbor) wouldn't be out of the question if need be.

Back when I did my saw the pulley came straight off without much extra persuasion. The steel pulleys and link belt ARE an improvement.
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the correct name for the tool is, unsurprisingly, ball joint separator.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 21:13:55 GMT, spam snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

I used one about 20 years ago. At this point, it's doubtful I'll ever use one again. I seem to remember that the car dealer wasn't keen on selling a ball joint, they seemed to think I'd buy a whole control arm.
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I have a couple gear pullers for such occassions, but the clearances into the saw preclude all but the very shortest of shaft varietes. Will have to go to a tool house and buy one for future uses.
The second problem was keeping the shaft from turning. When I got enough torque on the pulley with a pair of vise grips, it loosed the blade nut instead! The gear puller would have exerted at least as much rotational force as my pliers did.
Alan
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Sometimes there is a SECOND set screw under the first one.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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snipped-for-privacy@fellspt.charm.net (Lawrence Wasserman) wrote in message

I thought there HAD to be two because it was so tough, but the pulley had torqued into the keyway and was therefore quite difficult to remove.
Alan
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update:
I removed the arbor from the saw on Friday night. Upon examination of the bearings, they were both worn out. Both had some "tick" to them, one was without lube, the other quite gritty in feel. They have both been replaced with new NSK for about $12.00 from the local bearing supply house.
Today I had a friend pick up a new arbor pulley from WMH warehouse in Auburn WA. The Jet tech said it was machined, but I have my doubts. Approx $18.00 for the pulley. Hopefully will have it tomorrow.
I reinstalled the arbor with the two bearings. I was unable to locate a wrench that would allow me to tighten the "special" nut as a means of drawing the arbor into the second bearing. Instead I had to use a hard plastic hammer to drive the arbor most of the way. Then a steel hammer to tap it the last couple of tenths.
The WWII is mounted to the arbor and I see a variation of approx 8 thousands measuring on the sides of the teeth. -5/+3 I will try to measure the runout on the blade flange tomorrow again. I believe the motor weight also makes a slight adjustment to the arbor as having the weight on the pulley through the belt likely causes some deflection.
The WWII is a most impressive feeling blade, very stout, sharper than any cutting tool I've drug a fingerprint across. Perhaps in a few days I will be able to use it.
Alan
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