Re: This Old Kitchen - Remodel Part 3 - Actual Cabinet Installation

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On 4/4/2011 7:56 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

As mentioned, that model was for design purposes and I don't get carried away with all the joinery details. ;)
I use my own "dynamic" cabinet models for the style of cabinet to populate the model for the project. These are easily sized in width, depth and height to fit the cabinets to the design model and it's just too fussy, and unnecessary, to put in "dynamic" dados in those models ... besides, I know where they go.
The only problem with this method is that making cabinet changes with dynamic components means you have to make all of the components "unique"on the changed cabinet ... other wise you get some interesting changes in other cabinets. <g>
When I started using SU there were no dynamic cabinets available and you had to roll your own. Now that quite a few folks have gotten into SU, there are quite a few dynamic cabinet models available that can save you a bunch of time populating a space with cabinets for design purposes.
Before building the kitchen, I do model the final version of the individual cabinets in their own files, and either use the CutList plugin and/or enter the component sizes in CutList Plus by hand as a double check.
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On 4/4/2011 7:56 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Not a big fan of "built-in" kitchen cabinets ... potential for too many future problems when walls move, and they always do.
It's disgusting as hell to walk into a relatively new multimillion dollar home when the original owners sell it a few years later, one in which the kitchen was was ooohed and ahhhed over when it was new, and find that doors and drawers don't fit and it looks like shit ... a very common occurrence.
That's not to say that properly built-in kitchen cabinets can't stand the test of time ... just that the skill to do them properly is almost non-existent in the construction business these days.
Generally speaking, shop built cabinets, if built square, stay square ... meaning doors will fit and drawers will shut long after the house is past its prime.
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https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcaillouet/DurretteKitchenDemolitionWallRemoval?authkey=Gv1sRgCODv4OKAraChgQE #
http://picasaweb.google.com/karlcaillouet/DurretteKitchenShopPictures?authkey=Gv1sRgCIaJgYOqgKvOVw #
Marvelous! (And thanks for the slide show.)
Max
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In photo 24, do you waterproof the area that bucket inhabits?
Photo 61: are those rollout drawers in that stack? Hole in countertop for veggie scraps, or what?
Photo 65: Something I've always wondered is why the walls and ceilings aren't primed and painted before the cabinets go in. Access is there, touchup is easy after painting, and the risk to the cabinetry is zero, vs 100% after installation.
Photo 72: Is that 1/4" ply protecting the flooring there?
Photo 85: Ooh, a stove to LIVE for! I sure miss gas cookin'.
Photo 86: How is the butcher block sealed to the sink counter?
Photo 88: Lighted flooring?
Comin' right along there. The finished stack in temp storage grew by leaps and bounds, then dropped dramatically. Lookin' good, mon!

What is that, a $60k kitchen upgrade?
-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard
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On 4/2/2011 3:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Laminate ... I'll shoot a picture next week.

? According to my count, 61 is a stack of wall cabinet shelves.

It is quicker/more efficient to wrap the cabinets to prime and paint the walls than to schedule/reschedule painters; no sense in putting paint where not necessary; as a rule, I want to see painters as few times as possible. :)

$20k of cork flooring; layer of 6 mil poly (taped); layer of card board (butt taped); layer of 1/4 sanded pine plywood (butt taped); overkill, but, after all, it is the death penalty for any sub who farks with it ...

6 burner, Capital Precision 48" ... and does that thing put out the btu's.

There is t-shaped plastic strip that fits the 1/16" gap on either side. The BB needs to be removable for future replacement/maintenance.

LED strips under the peninsula/bar cabinet.
> Comin' right along there. The finished stack in temp storage grew by

Merci ...
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RE: Subject
As always, NEAT.
Lew
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Bueno.
I call rollout shelves "drawers", if that's what they are.

It just seems so wrong to me. <shrug> I'd go the extra $50 in paint in my kitchen and do it myself, jus'cuz.

Holy Chit, Batman!

In two, distinct rings of flame per burner. <drool> Are those extra (thermostatic?) controls for the oven and broiler? My old DeVille stove (ca '40s) had a separate broiler with adjustable height, a thermostatically controlled burner, and a stainless griddle. http://www.classicalgasstoves.com/okeefe_merritt_deville.htm with glass shelf in down position. I think I'd like the Capital Precision stove better, but it likely cost more than the $35 I gave for the old O'Keefe.

I've been looking for those. Silicone or plastic?

It begs the question "WHY?" Oh, to show off the cork floor?

Can't wait for next week's episode when you realize that you lost $12,672.31 on it. (sorry, de Debil made me do it)
-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard
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I am a sucker for a butcher block counter top. I love those things. I knew this guy who used to sell me "seconds" for a good price and I used them for desktops. That big, bad ass stove with the butcher block counter next to it is a winning combination.
As usual, good work Karl.
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On 4/2/2011 3:18 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:

John Boos makes some the best BB's around, at about $700/pop. Although, at the client's request, I had to shave off their (burned in) logo.

Thanks, Lee ... Leon shares equal billing, as usual.
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Fantastic!! I love the look of the kitchen. As you said, it's not your kitchen, and certainly it isn't ours, but it looksa great.
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Han
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On 4/2/2011 4:03 PM, Han wrote:

Thank you, Han!
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I am looking for LED strip lighting to put over my kitchen counter, under the upper cabinets. I haven't found anything that puts out enough light and is affordable for a retiree <grin>. What exactly did you use for that great and funky under-peninsula lighting?
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Han
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On 4/2/2011 5:05 PM, Han wrote:

LED technology is getting better, and MUCH brighter, literally on a monthly basis.
Under-peninsula lighting in question is strip LED which can be cut to fit. I will get you the exact make and model on Monday when I get back to the site.
All over-cabinet is T5 fluorescent for the light color and temp value (I prefer the LED, but not my call, as the color blind contractor who colored his coloring book grass pink until he learned to read the crayons)
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Thanks, Karl! I know about colour blindness from relatives through marriage - not good for electricians ...
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Han
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These are comparatively cheap at $25 a pop, and it looks like they use the old, discrete LEDs instead of the high-intensity Luxeon bulbs. http://goo.gl/SLaUy
Under $20, chainable. http://goo.gl/t6myp
Google is your friend, Han.
-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard
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Thanks, Larry.
In this case, Google isn't really my friend because I find it very difficult to estimate from the descriptions the dimensions, light output, ability to daisy chain and connect/switch them gadgets.
But those links give me some guidance to go to Lowe's or HD and look at the things.
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Hey.. I'm waiting for some laminate from Temple TX..for real...lol At least I'm not waiting for anything out of Quebec.
When all done, do a study on T & M and margins hoped for... then next time add $ 20,000. That quality of kitchen puts it in the premium range and should fetch a premium.... above the normal returns. I am sure you are aware that the client must be made to understand that while you're working on his/her project, you're not maxing out earning potential on another gig. You just can't keep playing for scale when you're on the charts. IYKWIM. <G>
Simple. You sell that $50K kitchen for $65K next time.
I have NO idea how the numbers fell on this gig, and it isn't any of my business. I do hope there is some coin left after all the hours, overhead, profit margins, material costs, labour and design time<<<(there's a biggie), etc.
Fabulous work, you guys.
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On 4/2/2011 4:45 PM, Robatoy wrote:

ROTFL ... Go Farking Figure!
Hell, I could drive to Temple, get the laminate, and be back for lunch! :)
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This is the stuff I'm waiting for:
http://www.wilsonartcontract.com/Laminate/AEON/outperforming.aspx
I'm using it to make some panels to line an elevator. The previous owner had the work performed by someone who didn't know his ass from his elbow when it came to laminate. No backer sheet on the panels and on cheap plywood to bootjust not done. Anyway, a job for an architect friend, he throws me work. You know the politics. Seems that nobody hears me when I say: "RETIRED!!!" WTF is wrong with people? Yes, I'm working every day...but on a job for ME! So these elevator panels HAD to be the no-scuff stuff... Wilsonart Canada was out of stock, so we wait till they have a truckload to bring up.... and that ain't happenin' till after they run that colour again. Bitch, bitch, bitch.
Off to see some friends, Ang has her bottle of merlot to pass around, I'm sticking to Erdinger Weiss.
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Hey, you old semi-retired fart. If you're not fully retired, then that's your fault. Shouldn't you have been grooming an up and coming apprentice all these years to take over for you when you're ready to give up the reins? Instead, you sold the business off lock, stock and barrel and then realized somewhere along the line that you'd actually been having fun all these years, so you've acceeded to the continued cries for your expertise.
Like I said, it's all your fault. We should all suffer from similar demands on our time.
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