RE: T/S Inertia

[Steve Turner]

From what I can see, you were _telling_ us, not asking, about the stability of the Unifence, and without any real first-hand knowledge. That makes _me_ the dummy?

Well it certainly depends on the application as to what fence is a better choice. If I'm running a production cabinet shop with husky galoots slamming sheet goods through the machine all day long, then I'm not gonna give 'em a Unifence; it's designed for finesse and accuracy, not abuse. I'm not gonna take my Ford F350 Power Stroke Diesel on a leisurely trip through the Texas Hill Country, and I'm not gonna take my Porsche to lumber yard to pick up roofing material.

And I'm sorry you got your boxers in a bunch.

[Steve Turner]

I absolutely trust the Unifence indicator, sometimes down to a 1/64" and it never fails me. I zero it to the blade maybe once a year; I can't recall it ever needing adjusting...

[Jack Stein]

I retro fitted a new Delta fence to my 1954 Delta saw. The tape that is on it is out of wack and would need replaced to be of any use. I've been thinking of buying a new adhesive tape for around 10 bucks, but figure I've been measuring the fence with a tape forever, so haven't bothered. I just looked up the Wixey gauge and it looks great... but...$100 is way too much for me... Rockler has sticky tape on sale for under $3.00, Kreg sells tape for $10.

BTW, my fence only locks on the front bar, the back bar only stops it from lifting up. I use the back bar to hold my out feed table. Works great, really really great compared to the original fence that did lock front and back.

[Josepi]

Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.

LOL @ sync

[Josepi]

Do you have any references for that statement?

We were always informed that regenerative braking was just another type not using an external stimulus.

No interlocking contactors are needed for regenerative braking. My first chop saw used a SPDT switch in the handle. When you let go the motor got shorted out. It's that circuitry simple. The switch doesn't last long, as no ballast load is supplied to limit the arcing current when this happens. The blades stopped very quickly, though.

Dynamic braking still requires a set of interlocked contactors which very much look like a reversing motor starter which is used to apply a DC voltage to the motor windings.

You need a DC power supply and a time delay relay to accomplish dynamic braking.

Take your choice, a motor mounted disc brake, a regenerative braking or a dynamic braking approach.

All are expensive, have lots of control hardware and are used on 3 phase motors.

It is totally cost prohibitive for a single phase motor.

Lew

"Jeff Gorman" wrote:

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[Jack Stein]

All I do is turn off the saw. I was making up a railing for a friend just yesterday and putting on the dado blade. He said don't you pull the cord... I don't. Never saw a light, appliance or power tool go on by itself. He said what if someone turns in on by accident? I said that would have to be me, and if I'm that freaking dumb, I deserve to lose an arm. I'm sure a switch has gone on by itself at least once somewhere, but in well over half a million hours of experience, I've not witnessed it, I asked him if he ever witnessed same, he said no, so thats well over one million hours of testing... so I live on the edge...

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...

[Morgans]

"Puckdropper" wrote

If it is moving around that easy, there is something wrong. Fix it, and you will be rewarded with accurate cuts, in half the time.

Really, if there is a problem with the fence, it can be fixed, even if you have to re-engineer the way it is attached.

[Morgans]

wrote

Buloney.

It will go to the same place, every time. That is what is necessary. Repeatability, and the stremgth to resist a moderated amount of side pressure.

If you are afraid it moves while you cut, your table alignment or technique needs adjustment.

You should not have to put enough pressure on the fence while making a cut to move the fence.

Re-read that last sentance again, and believe it. It is true.

[keithw86]

I don't trust the front rail and indicator. The tolerance stack is just too deep. Before I bought the Wixey I measured from a tooth (still do quite often). Money spent on these things is obviously a personal matter.

I have no rear bar (one of the weaknesses of the Biesemeyer fence, IMO). OTOH, I can see why they don't lock front and back. The second latch adds another source of error.

[keithw86]

Which drugs are you on today?

[Max]

If you're convinced that a Biesemeyer fence is superior to a Unifence then you should stick with a Biesemeyer. It doesn't appear that any amount of anecdotal evidence is going to persuade you against confirmational bias. In all likelihood the performance of either fence is so close that, in the end, it comes down to personal preference.

Max

[keithw86]

Were I convinced that one were superior I wouldn't have asked the question. Speaking of bunched panties!

[J. Clarke]

If it's that untrustworthy something's wrong. The factory fence on my

500 buck Ridgid is accurate and repeatable to the limit of my ability to read the markings. Took me a while to learn to trust it though.

If the saw gets moved around on the back of a truck, the way contractor saws are expected to be used, then the fence should be adjusted every time the saw is set up at a new job site, which should take under a minute. Things carried on a truck do get knocked.

[Max]

If I weren't of the opinion that you seemed biased that one *was* superior to the other one I wouldn't have made my comment.

Max

[:-)

[Max]

Keeps life interesting.

Max

[keithw86]

Look. When I bought my Unisaur I researched both systems, including querying this group. Not having used a Unifence or ever having had access to same, my OPINIONS are based on this research. So, yes, having done homework and having _made_ the choice, I was obviously convinced that the Biesemeyer was the better fence. If others have different OPINIONS, I'm certainly interested in discussing the fine points (and would love to try the Unifence) but I highly doubt I'll ever change fences. I think even I can find a better use for the money. ;-)

Now, is it time to unwedge? Did I spell "Biesemeyer" right?

[Robatoy]

I have used the Uni and The Bies for decades, both at the same shop. I have screwed around with many fences at other shops, always asking why those guys liked what they liked. So my personal preference? Both the Uni and the Bies are toys. Good toys, but toys. The SCM and Altendorf guys have it down: Great big tube or channel and a humongous casting with a T configuration, no clamping at the back, ever.

[Max]

It's a good feeling when one's suspicions are confirmed. All kidding aside, I think each fence has it's adherents and there's not enough difference to quibble about.

Max

[Puckdropper]

Jack Stein wrote in news:i3rldl$28p$ [e-mail]:

I've seen some things turn on by themselves, or more likely *not* turn on. Usually what happened is the switch is either not in a full off position or defective. The switch not being in a full off position is difficult on most of the power tools I've used.

Now some of these modern computers... Those stupid things turn on when power is connected.

Puckdropper

[Josepi]

Some have a safety cover over the toggle switch to help prevent things accidentally clicking it on.

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...