Re: subpanel for the shop

Trimmed for brevity....

>>I just so happen to have a 100 amp panel. It looks a little different >>from the other subpanel I had though. It looks like it's meant to be >>the only panel in the house. My old one didn't have a 60amp breaker in >>it. It relied on the breaker in the main panel, with the feed wires >>going into screw terminals on the bus bar. This one has a 100 amp >>breaker in it. It looks like I can't remove it. Am I missing >>something? > > What you're missing is the notion that this is *exactly* the kind of panel > you > want for a subpanel in your shop - in an emergency, if you want to kill > all > the power in the shop RIGHT NOW, you have the disconnect right there at > the > subpanel. You don't have to go back to the main. >

Sounds good, except if the lights are fed from the subpanel.....

Even with a main lug subpanel w/o the breaker on the incoming feed you can quickly kill all (or some) of the power by hitting the breakers.

I have a 60 amp main lug subpanel with 8 slots, 4 filled. I could kill all the power only marginally faster if I had a main breaker. Regardless of the setup, you have to recognize a problem, realize you need to kill the power, run over to the panel, open the cover and reach up and switch the breaker(s). I also have the option of just switching the circuits feeding the receptacles and leaving the lights up or vice-versa (though I do have a light on a separate circuit run directly from the main panel that I always turn on).

My 2 cents....

Tim

Reply to
Tim
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RE: Subject

Go to your local DIY and buy a 125A, main lug only 12/24 panel.

Add a 2P-60A main c'bkr kit and an insulated earth ground bus bar kit.

Use 1P-20 for receptacles and lighting circuits.

Use 2P-40 for a 5 HP air compressor and a 2P-30 for your table saw.

Other loads as req'd.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett
60A makes much more sense all the way around.

Follow the advice in Lew's post in this thread and you won't go wrong.

Reply to
Swingman

How's that? I have a 100A subpanel, fed from a 100A breaker in the main panel.

Reply to
Art Greenberg

Not too sure where you're coming from, Bob, as my shop is fed from a =

100A breakered service that is itself a drop from my 100A main service. = The feed wire is about 1" thick (I think #1). The electrician who = installed it had no problem doing so.

The setup allows me to isolate the shop service such that I can supply = emergency power to my furnace and/or air conditioner whenever the hydro = is out. It tends to piss the neighbours a tad when I have the only = lights in town.

I currently have 3 15A 110 drops from it and 1 20A 220 for my = compressor. As this panel used to be my main (until I upgraded to = breakers) there is lots of room for expansion.

There seems to me to be no reason not to go for more capacity when it is = available.

--=20 PDQ

Reply to
PDQ

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