Re: Stabilized ChainSaw Bar?? Accuracy needed.

I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to do. Are the cuts 90 degree, or are you trying to cut the miters and leave tenons?

Have you considered using a portable bandsaw?

Ed

Reply to
Ed
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Use an electric chainsaw.

Reply to
Sbtypesetter

Ed, I want to do two things:

- Cutoff of up to 8x12 beams, well squared end.

- End cuts to produce a tenon on beam ends

A bandsaw that has an 8 inch clearance is big and expensive. I'm trying to find/design a low-cost alternative for the once-in-a-while framer (me!)..

A sharp chainsaw with a unworn bar and chain makes a pretty accurate cut if well controlled. I want to build a sort of "chainsaw chop-saw" which controls the saw movement. Not usual 'freehand' at all.

Reply to
Terry King

That's exactly what I intend to do.

The issue is that the 16" long bar will deflect sideways with a small amount of pressure: about 1/4 inch with 1 pound force approximately. This is enough to cause inaccuracy in cuts even if the chainsaw body is rigidly restrained.

I want to build a mount for the saw that will reach out and support (relatively) rigidly the far end of the bar. This would still leave about 12" of working bar.

I think. I'm hoping someone has done something like this, OR can point to something like this, OR point to why it's a really dumb idea...

Reply to
Terry King

While living in the Berkshires, one of the nearby property owners hired some folks to do some logging of the trees. . .The loggers had a rig set up on a flatbed trailer with a humongus such chainsaw chop-saw. You might talk to some loggers for starters.

Kim

Reply to
Kim Whitmyre

there is a add on tool for a sidewinder saw like a skill 77 that is called a beam cutter made by pratzi it has a about a 12 " bar that hangs down from where the blade would be retaiils for about 120 to

139.00

check it out I th>Has anyone seen a chain saw device that has the

Reply to
WALT K

Reply to
Lorna & Chris

I looked at this product; it does not add any stabilization to the far end of the bar, and I believe that is what makes some of the chainsaw mills work well: the bar is held solids at BOTH ends...

I'm close to a trial design for this, using 1" and 1.5" square steel tubing in the frame; I hope to be trying it out in about 10 days...

I have 8 by 8's 16 feet long in my yard as of last night, and cutting time is coming fast...

Reply to
Terry King

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