Re: QUESTION - HOW DO YOU SHARPEN A HOLE SAW?

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The real Dave says....doubt if you can sharpen a hole saw. I'm bettin' that it is the same grade and temper of steel as a hacksaw blade. Can't recall anybody sharpening one of those, have you?
Of course there are TCT hole saws but I have no knowledge about them. Might hit the web and send an email to Starrett or Milwaukee or one of the other sellers and makers of hole saws. See what they say about re-sharpening 'em. Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd /
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I tried to have a 6" hole saw sharpened that was used for cutting holes in fiberglass tubs and showers. It came back half done with a note saying the thing was too hard and there was no charge. It might just be time to buy another :)
Thanx much,
Scott
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On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 00:04:39 -0500 (EST), snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (T.) wrote:

All my hole saws are either carbide (can't sharpen that) or induction hardened (can't sharpen that either).
I have two sets; sharp and blunt. I keep the blunt ones for building work, when I _know_ I'm going to ruin them in plaster, or by hitting a brick. They're not expensive to buy and I know I can still get some use out of one that's less than pristine.
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
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Send them to a proffesional saw sharpening place and they can sharpen, carbide and all, there are some of the bi-metel hole saws that cannot be sharpened . the regular one that look like handsaw teeth are sharpened with a file and of course have to be reset T if you sau they felt the same but one was better than the other check the sey to see if one has a better set
Good Luck, George Let us know how you make out

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On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 12:15:06 +0000, Andy Dingley

Aren't they just carbide tipped?
Have a nice week...
Trent
Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!
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I do the steel ones using a dremel tool and one of those reinforced cutoff wheels. You can use a small solid carbide burr to sharpen forstner bits also. Its not a precision job like what you'd get from a sharpening shop, but if the tool cuts like crazy after you're done, who cares?
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I have done the same with excellent results.

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wrote:

I've found that any power tool like that takes off WAY too much material.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!
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Trent wrote:

It's all a matter of knowing how to hold the tool and concentration.
--
Mark

N.E. Ohio
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wrote:

Are you telling me that you can take off the same amount of material with a Dremmel tool that you can with 2 swipes of a file?
Have a nice week...
Trent
Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!
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Trent wrote:

If that's what you think I wrote you need professional help.
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Mark

N.E. Ohio
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wrote:

I *KNOW* what you WROTE...I'm just not sure I understand what you MEANT. lol
So...answer the question.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!
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Trent wrote:

Trent, trent, trent,
Are you trolling?
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Mark

N.E. Ohio
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On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 00:04:39 -0500 (EST), snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (T.) wrote:

No special trick...except for the angle. Just make sure each tooth is sharpened as close as possible to its original angle.
I bought a tool from QVC...a kitchen tool...to sharpen my kitchen knives. On one end, it has a open area...to sharpen things that can't be put into the V part like a knife.
I sometimes use it...in place of a file. Just 2 one-direction swipes...and a tooth is back to factory specs.

I sharpen all my blades on a regular basis. I've never farmed any of them out. I usually have 2 of everything...one being used...and one sharpened and ready to go.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!
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To the best of my knowledge only for use on non-ferrous materials. I can see the possibilty of re-sharpening one of those.
I don't consider a hole saw as being a very precise wood boring device. If you have a drill press a FLY CUTTER would be my choice.
Frankly for the time and effort and tools needed to even attempt a re-sharpening of a metal cutting hole saw compared to just schlepping out and buying a new one is not very cost effective, IMOOP, that is.
I think the 'suits' have a name for such items, Consumables, IIRC. Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd /
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Dave Fleming <> wrote:

He has a baby drill press, I think. I know with my 10" benchtop, it specifically said that I could not use a fly cutter on the thing.
(I did it anyway, and the chuck came off more than once.)
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Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
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Personally I'd go buy another set at horrible freight as I've tried to sharpen them with a file and found the metal's too hard. But since you want to have fun . . . 1. Dremel tool with the grinding disk. 2. Small diamond faced stick or even a fingernail file. 3. Propane torch to anneal the saw and just use regular files. The above are random thoughts, none of which I've tried. Have fun.
Art

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On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:54:35 -0500 (EST), snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (T.) wrote:

Can't you WELD it?! lol
Have a nice week...
Trent
Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!
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this from the man who said "failure is not an option", earlier in *this* Discussion? !! <VBG,d&r>
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On Tue, 25 Nov 2003 08:31:34 +0000, snipped-for-privacy@host122.r-bonomi.com (Robert Bonomi) wrote:

Yup. I don't see why it couldn't be welded and balanced. lol
Have a nice week...
Trent
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