Re-purpose white oak flooring

Tore out the 16x11 room full of white oak I laid not paying attention that was supposed to be red oak. Now looking to find a use for what's left. The boards have been de-nailed by sawing into shorter lengths (12 to 48 inches) and will probably finish out after removing the tongue and groove and planing the back at about 1/2 to 5/8" thick and a hair under 2" wide.
Any ideas?
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Steve Barker
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Steve Barker wrote:

the T&G.
--
G.W. Ross

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On 8/10/2012 10:04 AM, G. Ross wrote:

+1 thanks for the reply! I do heat with wood in the house. Don't have an official wood shop yet.
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Steve Barker
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On 8/10/2012 10:04 AM, G. Ross wrote:

WHITE oak?
What a waste. It makes good boat building material. Well, small parts anyways.
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On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:56:36 -0500, Steve Barker

You could make lumber for HO scale railroad cars, Steve.
Or sub-miniature viking longboats?
-- We are always the same age inside. -- Gertrude Stein
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I'd probably glue the pieces together to make panels for whatever project needed them. Actually, I've got a use for them now, as I'm building a work table that sits on drawers.
T&G could be very nice for a desk base, as thicker material on the outside would give the flooring room to expand and contract along its width while keeping everything still locked in place. I had one project where I used individual vertical panels, and while it looks nice enough the panels can move independantly.
If nothing else, they'll be close to the right width to use as risers for your railroad. It probably wouldn't hurt to use it for some of the benchwork as well.
Puckdropper
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On 8/10/2012 10:49 AM, Puckdropper wrote: ...

Yeah, I'd have never sawn it up until had the need...nails will come out and aren't _necessarily_ a fatal defect.
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Any ideas? -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email
Sounds like some good material for making trays. Box joint or dovetail joints with some prefinished 1/4" maple or birch ply bottoms.
White Oak color ideas. 1. Natural (sorta) - Hand wiped wash coat of thinned clear shellac - Hand wiped dark gel stain, remove 95% so it just remains in the grain lines to add nice contrast. - Over finish with shellac, wiping poly or spray lacquer - Rub out and wax with scrub pad or steel wool then buff
2. Mission Oak (sorta) - Raise grain with warm water and lightly hand sand with 320 after dry to remove raised grain - Dye with Transtint Mission Brown or similar color by using water mixture (not alcohol). Watch joints for dewicking for at least a half an hour and dab away extra dye as it seeps out of joints. - seal with thinned coat of shellac (any color you like) - Like natural, pop the grain by wiping over a dark gel stain (or oil stain even) and wipe away 95%. - Over coat with shellac, hand wiped poly or sprayed shellac and wax out. Can use garnet or orange shellac or others to add more depth of color.
You can get a nice antiqued look by leaving some of the gel stain in the corners, etc or by using black wax and doing the same.
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Steve Barker wrote:

It is good for anything for which you want a good, solid, stabile (and stable) hard wood. Flexible too. It is generally what I use for shop jigs. Much better than red oak, for sure.
--

dadiOH
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Small corner cabinet, eye level, maybe for the bathroom above the counter top?
Router bit storage cabinet?
Sonny
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"Steve Barker" wrote:

Tool tote box, trivets.
Lew
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