Re-paint new kraftmaid cabinets

We just bought a home and it has new shaker style Kraftmaid cabinets in the Frost Glaze finish.
Can anyone give me some advice on what it would take to repaint the cabinets? We really hate the color, and my wife wants a white kitchen...the frost glaze is a yellow-cream and just doesn't look good in the house.
I am trying to asses if this is a project I could undertake myself- refinishing novice- or if this is going to be a professional job. I contacted Kraftmaid and they gave me this big speach on how their cabs are "not made to be refinished" because of the "bake on process" that they use.
So any advice you can provide is much appreciated. Is this simply a "scuff and paint" type job, or am I going to have to get into bonding agents and all that?
Thanks, AC
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Here is a good starter article to give you some info:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/kitchen/article/0,16417,202424-2,00.html
I see no reason you can't paint over this particular finish, although I would go with a professional to do it. doing it yourself would be a little like winning a new Lexus and taking a brush to it because you'd prefer another color, in my opinion.
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On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 10:24:15 -0800, anthony.claudia wrote:

Looking at their Web site it looks like they used some kind of high-tech finish over birch. Could be a catalyzed lacquer, could be a urethane, could be something else. If they finished it with a silicone wax you're screwed. Otherwise it should be possible to refinish it to whatever level you want.
If you want to refinish to the same level of durability and you're not sure of your abilities, then I'd say hire a pro to do it. If you just want it white and are willing to repaint in a few years as required then prime it, paint it, and be done with it.
You could try one of the high tech finishes--the new waterbornes from ML Campbell and Fuhr and the like are really decent and pretty close to as durable as whatever came on the cabinets, but they don't brush very well--they really need to be sprayed for best results--you could brush or roll one of the older solvent-based systems but be aware that they are highly flammable (I mean like pretend it's gasoline and you've got the right idea) and the concentrated fumes are toxic (I'm not talking "possible carcinogen", I mean with a low dose you get a buzz, high enough dose you get dead).

--
--John
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I hand the brush to my wife and get out of her way.
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