RE: No Electricity Table Saw

"Bill" wrote

If so, it seems that if it works as well as it seems, somebody will knock it off and sell it for less. I don't know how much less though. I don't see this as a high production tool or anything. Maybe three different models depending on precision and ruggedness may be in order.

Are you reading this Rob Lee? You think that Veritas may be interested in producing a similar tool to this?? Hint, hint. :)

Reply to
Lee Michaels
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Sure, but I still think this is really designed for very small precise work. Table saws in general do a bit of everything. And when you start to do small stuff on the table saw, the danger element goes up. Soooo......, something that reduces the risk and makes small parts may be a niche product. But for someone who could use it, it is probably really worth the money.

Reply to
Lee Michaels

Maybe a three-stop turret like on a router?

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Hey, where's the friggin' blade guard? I hear the dentist-drill sound that thing makes, then I imagine sticking my finger in the wrong place right when I'm making an exuberant swipe, and...

Reply to
Steve Turner

On 10/26/2009 7:40 PM Artemus spake thus:

Exactly what I was thinking: there should be a ratcheting jack that raises the blade on the backstroke, adjustable, and able to be defeated for repeat cuts with the blade at the same height.

Hell, for $1300, why not?

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

On 10/26/2009 3:41 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:

cheap.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

FWIW, for small stuff consider an RAS--cutting those tiny little bits at the end of his video is easy on one. Remember that an RAS will rip fine with the blade in the crosscut position as long as the length of the stock is less than the blade travel. The danger is much less because you have many options for securing the stock, which doesn't have to move during the cut, and with a fresh fence you automatically have zero clearance.

Reply to
J. Clarke

.....Or less even. I just bought a new 12" TS, L.H tilt, with sliding table, two table extensions and a primitive biesemeyer style fence for less than AUD$700

diggerop

Reply to
diggerop

Just remember that to get a flat bottomed dovetail with a table saw you need a special grind on the blade--but Forrest will sell you one of those for about 1/10 what the device under discussion costs.

Reply to
J. Clarke

That's what people thought for 17 years regarding the Fein Multimaster. Didn't happen.

Then, last November, the patent expired....

Reply to
HeyBub

Hmm. Make your own?

What you need is a device with a table that adjusts instead of the blade (think Shopsmith) and a fixed, thin-bladed, cross-cut saw.

Reply to
HeyBub

Speaking of which, I'm thinking now that a nice little table that holds a Multimaster could be a handy thing. Not what you'd use for ripping 8/4 lumber but for dovetails and the like the thin blades could be handy. OTOH might work as well hand-held. Never though of trying that before.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Just a thought>>>>>How about a 300 pound fly wheel you hand crank up to speed to drive your table saw. No electric power needed. WW

Reply to
WW

I saw one at the Indiana State Fair (pioneer tools)--leg operated, of course. Actually more of a sabre-saw.

Reply to
Bill

Wait a few years and Harbor Freight will have a copy at $39.95.

Reply to
Nova

Hmmm, that's not a bad idea at all. Easy enough to rig up, and having the ability to have a preset angle is perfect for dovetails or tenon shoulder cuts.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Or you could just have the 300 pound wife crank it. :)

R
Reply to
RicodJour

How is that comparable? Other than the fact that they both cut wood, they are barely related in market(ing).

I think a large number of people would be interested just because it's small and quiet. Not too many people have wives that wouldn't object to firing up the table saw in the basement at two in the morning. I'm finding machine noise more objectionable as I age. I use earplugs, but I don't like the noise, period. You can also stick it up on a shelf when it's not in use.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Agreed. It's not clear that having the workpiece move is the best way and it is certainly not as safe as having the saw blade mounted on a sliding track and moving it through the clamped workpiece. It would be slower, though.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message news:0044aace$0$16915$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com...

What's involved in sharpening or replacing the blade?

Reply to
Nonny

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