Re: Newbie question on cutting beadboard



With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with table saws you'd have the good side up.
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Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
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OK, thanks!
dwhite
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wrote:

A sheet of rigid foam insulation (sacrifical) under the sheet you're cutting (then laid on the ground or floor) is said to help as well. The beadply is then better supported, and less prone to splintering as well.
How's the deli coming?
Patriarch
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wrote:

Yes, I'd heard that one and then cheaped out as the foam was about $25. Maybe I wasn't looking at the right thing. I think I'll just try to cut it on a counter edge with some help holding the cutoff piece and see how that goes.
Anyway I'm done with all the major cutting and screwing stuff. It is coming together very nicely if I say so. Maybe I'll post some pics if anyone cares. I have to warn you, though, to be prepared to see lots of heavily polyurethaned hard maple counters! I think they look great, and hopefully will stand up to normal wear and tear.
thanks! dwhite
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<snip>

I never thought the poly was correctly a religious thing. It certainly has its place, and kitchens are quite often that place.
There have been a number of active threads on kitchens lately, so I imagine that there would be interest on your project as well.
And on the beadply, you may want to at least invest in a sharp blade for the circular saw. That should help, and not break the bank.
Patriarch
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I got a 140 tooth blade, which cut a piece of ply like butter. Should work well on the beadboard.
dwhite
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