Re: MDF table top

Hi all . . .

> > I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old > hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use. > > The table needs to be dead flat. The way I build the model airplanes > is to top the table with a sheet of 1/2" foam building insulation, lay > the plans on the foam, cover the plans with waxed paper, and build the > various parts of the model directly over the plans. The foam > insulation sheet is so I use T-pins to hold the wood parts in place > during frame-up. > > No need for drawers or storage; the table is strictly for building the > airframe. > > There will never be any weight to speak of on the building bench, > other than the airframe, hand tools, bottle of Titebond, etc. Nothing > heavy at all; the model I'm working on now will weigh about 30 pounds > ready-to-fly. Finished models won't ever be placed on the building > table, only the major sub-assemblies like the right wing, left wing, > fuselage, or tail feathers. > > I need the work surface to be 30" wide x 6' long to handle any model > I'll likely build in the near future. > > The table has to come apart from time to time so I can regain floor > space for doing things like rigging the paint tent, checking the CG on > a completed model, etc. Which in turn means the building bench can't > be built like one would build a regular wood working bench, I gotts to > break it down and stash it in the corner from time to time. > > The question is, using 1/2" MDF for the work surface, how much support > will be needed to insure it doesn't droop over time ? > > I thought a pair of 2x6s length wise, 10" in from the front and rear > edge, a 2x4 frame with 2x4 legs, and I'm done. > > Sound ok, or did I miss something ? > > I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two > 3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit > about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that > is. > > > Cheers, > Fred McClellan > the dash plumber at mindspring dot com >
Reply to
CW
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New Yankee workshop has plans and a show on making a sturdy, lightweight table with retractable wheels, you may want to look at that for ideas. He uses 1/2 inch MDF for the top and "hollow door like construction" piece under it for support. The best part is after the mdf gets messed up it is easily replaced, protecting the table itself. You don't need the strength to handle the weight Norm's does, so you can make things smaller.

Reply to
JEL

Look at David Marks web site for his torsion table.

Grant

JEL wrote:

Reply to
Grant P. Beagles

make the top a 'torsion box' it'll be lighter so you can move it around if you want, and it will be flatter and stronger.

Reply to
Paul
[posted and mailed]

Fred McClellan wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

This is overkill for what you need, but it might give you ideas for making a torsion box:

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Reply to
Patrick Fitzgerald

Thought so. That's the way the main work bench is made, except with hinges at the wall and removable front legs.

Thanx.

Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

Reply to
Fred McClellan

Yeah, it's prolly a bit on the weighty side, but I'll chew on making it lighter one way or t'other.

Thanks for the links, although I suspect in the long run all you've done is get me in more trouble with The Redhead Herself. I mean, damn ! Lookit all the stuff to be built !

Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

Reply to
Fred McClellan

Yeah - found the links to the torsion box episodes.

Looks like The Building Table Du Jour, alright.

Just wondering how heavy that thing is, and whether I can rig a chain fall to the rafters when it comes time to move it, without pulling the roof down . . .

Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

Reply to
Fred McClellan

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