Re: How do they do that

A. I guess that there has been a lack of response because the application is limited...not the jig but trying to reinvent one that is already out there. If you have lots of doors to drill, the commercially available jig makes sense. If only a couple, using the paper template makes sense. You can still use simple jigs...such as MDF to locate the wide holes, but remember this is a hole saw application and once you get hole started, you do nt want pattern in place. From reading your messages, it sounds like you like to tinker. That's fine, just don't expect a bunch of people to pile on. And if they did, I would weigh each a nd every answer with a grain of salt.
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Well, it is a concept project. And as I said I already own the commercial jig. Here's the way I look at it:
1. The concept of a self centering jig, it could certainly have applications for drilling dowels or routing mortises or countless other applications, even bed hardware with captive nuts and draw bolts.
2. The concept of compensated off center clamping perhaps this may be limited, but really cool. It is kind of like having a cabinet making clamp that has only one screw and the jaws stay square. I would also like to apply this to F clamps in such a way as to make pads for them that will make them behave more like a K body clamp. Yes I do like to tinker. :)
3. Drill guides in general. I have seen these holesaw guides made from plastic and such so I assume wood would be better. And I have seen tips where people cut holes on a drillpress then used those holes in wood to guide the drill in cutting square holes. So I was wondering the efficacy for this situation. I have also seen tips where people did this oversized and put guide bushings in the holes. I kind of wondered if such things were available in larger sleeves such as 2-1/8 etc.
4. As for wanting the pattern in place, I do to the extent that I only want to hole saw through half way on both sides. Having it in place would help in assuring that when I start from the opposite side I actually meet in the middle.
5 As for reinventing an existing jig, that is done all the time. Every tennoning jig I have ever seen looks a lot like the commercially available ones. As do the hinge mortising jigs, and router tables etc. etc. etc. Once I can get to the point of having similar behavior to the base proven existing jig, then I have room to modify it for improvement on the base concept.
I was kind of amazed that I got Zero response, because even stupid things get a "Don't do that" response usually. :) I don't ever 'expect' lots of people to join in, as a matter of fact I am usually amazed that I get response from anyone that doesn't start off with "You idiot, what are you thinking... " :-) (though I have gotten a few of those)
I weigh all responses with a grain of salt.
Thanks for responding and not calling me an idiot :)
-- Absinthe

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Absinthe wrote:

I constructed two jigs like you describe for a certain plane maker known on this rec. earlier this year.
The least expensive way to get the screws and nuts you need is to buy a hand screw in what ever size floats your boat from Harbor Freight.
Alignment rods are not necessary if you don't elongate the holes in the two clamping blocks.
I used two stop collars on each screw to hold the middle block centered as the screws are turned.
ARM
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"Absinthe" wrote

against the shoe sole in the center. Hmmmm..............
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Get thee to a _real_ hardware store.
Ask for a 'turn-buckle'.
See if that gives you any ideas.
<grin>
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On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:12:32 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@news2.bonomi.com (Robert Bonomi) Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
snip

roflmao
Traves
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