<snip of Grizzly response>
Finally got time to take a look @ my bandsaur, took 3/8" blade that came
*with* riser kit off & tried the 3/4" one I bought from Griz when I got the
saw. It was definitely longer, mounted on wheels very nicely. Emailed Griz
tech support that the problem was the *short* blade, they have sent me an
apology for the problem AND are sending me another 3/8" blade gratis to
I've got to say I'm a satisfied customer!
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.
Considering that Timberwolf is one of the most recommended blades around, I
wonder what axe you are grinding?
Have you had a bad experience with a TW blade? I've used plenty of them and
have always found them to be superior to any other blade around that I have
wrote in message news:...
Just b'cuz I find Southfolk's blade unsatisfactory I have an axe to grind?
It seem almost everyone here ".....heard nothing but raves about Timberwolf
blades, (borrow from Norman D. Crow :-). I bought two of their blades and it was
really very bad. Suffolk Machinery reluctantly replaced one blades and told me
not to throw it away as they may want it back. The replacement was still the
same, now the 3 blades sit on the shelf gathering saw dust!
I bought a Lee Valley's Viking blade plus others stuff. LV blade is very good,
in LV's catalogue their Viking blades formally known as Timberwolf. Probably, I
will also try Olson blades too. :-).
The Iturra catalog mentioned that they are not allowed to use a
certain name because of trademark issues. Therefore they use a
different name in their catalog - Bladerunner.
Is the the Timberwolf blades they are talking about? Whats the story?
They also mentioned that they and FWW disagree about which blade is
best. FWW didn't measure durability.
So if depends on your needs. If you have low-volume, high quality
needs, Bladerunner is a good blade. If you want a blade to last a long
time, which FWW didn't measure, Iturra suggests Pro Master (II or III).
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
Several years back in the wreck, we concluded the WoodSlicer is generally
better up to 6-8 inches, while the Suffolk pulls ahead as you get wider. It
was both easier to cut with and smoother. At that time we also traded samples
to compare. In the end, though, I found adjustment and technique to be the
One blade item that hasn't been mentioned is colinearity (?). When you rotate
a mounted blade by hand, measure the movement (front to back) in the back of
the blade. This seemed to directly correlate to roughness of cut, measuring
and checking three otherwise identical blades. However, it didn't appear that
any manufacturer had a spec on this. Since blades vary, it's hard to compare
different manufactures unless you measure the specific blades to catch those
at the edge.
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