Re: Compressed air lines

>Don't forget to invest in a box of bandaids for when that line lets go. You'd >be better off if that line DID leak.

The line is specifically designed for high pressure compressed air and does not shatter, it isn't PVC. I took to a one inch offcut with a hammer and I only managed to squash it, like hitting copper.

cheers,

Greg

Reply to
Groggy
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Did you look at his reference material? The product is designed for exactly the purpose to which he applied it. Polyethylene is NOT PVC.

--

******** Bill Pounds
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Reply to
Pounds on Wood

Got a link? I'd like to read about the stuff, I'm tired of dragging hose around.

Reply to
Dave Hinz

_WHY_ are you posting this alarmist crap ?

It's polyethlene and polypropylene. I've personally installed miles of this stuff into factories worldwide - perfectly reasonable materials to use (a little damage prone, compared to steel, but then it doesn't rust either). Even the gas mains running underneath my street are a very similar material (higher molecular weight, so it welds better).

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Have you priced black pipe lately? Astronomical

It would be at least double your estimate

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

To view the pipe:

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for the actual home page.

Reply to
Groggy

FYI Larry, in US dollars, McMaster -Carr lists it at $5.97 per foot. I used 65 feet. 65 x $5.97 = $388.05

Using 126" lengths it is $42.80 per length. I'd need just over 6 lengths, even then it works out at $264.95.

Then, you need to buy joiners, saddles, tape or hemp, a cutting tool, deburrer, reducers etc.

I think I got a better deal somehow, remember that I paid $290 for everything, including all fittings.

Spec used was :

Shape Pipe: Pipe Size 1" Finish: Black Steel: Black Welded Steel Pipe to Pipe Connection: NPT Male x Butt-Weld Schedule: 40 Outside Diameter: 1.315" Inside Diameter: 1.049" Wall Thickness: .133" Length: 12" Specifications Met: ASTM A53 and A733

Reply to
Groggy

Better places to buy black pipe than MC, prices are probably 3X of what I can buy it for. But for the ease of installation, you did good! Greg

Reply to
Greg O

Pipe has skyrocketed in the past year. I called the plumbing supply about a length of 4" pipe and was shocked at the price. (IIRC, it was about $12 a foot!) He said the mills are not even giving prices when you order, it will be determined at the time of shipment. MC is a little high, but not the 3X you stated.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

McMaster-Carr and Grainger are industrial sources. In other words, they're the source for "If you've got to have it RIGHT NOW and the boss is paying for it, we're your source!"

They've got everything, and can deliver it on the next UPS truck. But they're not the best source for comparing prices on anything.

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Craig

some here too. This pipe is blue and is about 3/8" wall thickness.

Check my price post.

Reply to
Groggy

On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 12:01:52 GMT, "Groggy" calmly ranted:

Gotcha. But low-pressure water pipe is 4x underrated for safety. When it says 90psi, it can handle 360. I saw other tubing listed by other makers in 3, 5, 7, and 13mm wall and think it would be easier to use than black iron pipe. But I have an 8.5' ceiling (thank goodness) so an air drop would work for me I already hang an electrical extension cord from there so I can use power hand tools on any given machine.

A those prices, I'm certainly not going to buy pipe from McMaster. It's much cheaper from my local plumbing/electrical supply store. ($8.95 for 10' of 1/2", $9.95 for 10' of 3/4", didn't price 1") Here's how I use 3/4" pipe in my shop today, floor through ceiling:

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;)

-- "Menja bé, caga fort!"

Reply to
Larry Jaques

And yet, when I'm guessing, I say so rather than pretending I'm stating fact. Ahem.

Reply to
Dave Hinz

There you go thinking again...instead of researching.

Reply to
ted harris

Is that stuff similar to the tubing seen in soda dispensing systems?

If so, it'll probably work fine.

How much would copper cost for the identical installation?

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y

Our company gets significant discounts from either source's list price.

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y

Hate to say it BUT I think you missed the part of Greg's post where he stated that he used polyethelene. PVC is polyvinyl chloride.

Polyethelene != PVC.

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

RE: Subject

Having designed and installed a few compressed air distribution for industrial application, will offer the following:

1) The distribution plumbing is part of the storage system. 2) The larger the pipe used, the slower the air travels down the pipe. 3) The slower the air travels down the pipe, the less water it can carry to the tool since the air is also cooler. 4) If the air must reverse direction, it will help trapped water drop out of the air. 5) The less water, the less problems and the longer the life of the equipment.

Based on the above, consider the following:

1) Find a plumbing supply house or plumbing contractor that will work with you.

You would be surprised what a case of beer after 5:00 PM can accomplish if approached in the right manner.

2) Cut a full 20 ft length of 2" pipe (THAT'S RIGHT, 2 INCH PIPE) into either 4 or 8 equal pieces and thread both ends of each piece as required.

3) Assemble the cut pieces together to reform the 20 ft length using 2"x2"x3/4" reducing tees (2" run x 2" run x 3/4" side).

4) Assemble so that 3/4" openings are all facing the same direction.(I use nothing but Teflon paste as a pipe dope for threaded pipe)

5) On one end, assemble a 2"x2"2" tee using the side connection. Assemble so that 2" openings are lined up with the 3/4" openings.

6) Plug the 2" opening that is on the same side as the 3/4" openings.

7) On the opposite 2" opening install a petcock fitting that can be used as a drain using required reducing bushings.

8) On the opposite end of the 20 ft assembly, install another 2"x2"x2" tee, exactly as was done on the opposite end.

9) Plug the top opening (3/4" side) with a 2" plug.

10) The bottom fitting will be where the hose from the compressor will be connected.

11) At each 3/4" side tee opening, install two (2), 3/4" street ells such that the air must change direction 180 degrees.

12) Hang this assembly using pipe hangers and threaded rod with the 3/4" side openings facing up and the hole thing pitched about 1 to 12 with the drain petcock on the low end.

13) Connect tool hoses as required. Plug any unused openings.

14) Connect the compressor to the pipe using at least a 3/4" hose. (You may have to have this hose made up, is so, use 1") Don't be surprised if this isn't the most expensive item in the system.

You have just accomplished several things:

1) Storage capacity is increased about 3.25 gallons for every 20 ft of 2" pipe installed which has lots of benefits. When it comes to storage, more is better.

2) The pipe serves as a great water trap as well as delivering cooler air to the tool. (The secret is the reversal of the air and the size of the pipe)

3) All tool hoses hang straight down thus reducing stress reversals of the hose.

4) The cyclic loading on the compressor is reduced since storage capacity is increased, thus helping to reduce the temperature of the delivered air. (Lower temperature, less water)

As the old saying goes, there ain't no free lunch, but this is an investment that will pay on big dividends over the years.

Just to clarify:

1) All pipe is Sch 40, black iron. 2) All fittings are 125/150 lb, black iron.

Enjoy,

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

On Thu, 6 Jan 2005 16:32:58 -0800, "ted harris" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

hmmmmm...Not easier, but how many facts have been discovered because somebody acted on a hunch or followed up a guess?

As long as the guess is presented clarly as one, there should be lots of room for them.

I say this as somebody who continually gets pissed off with my wife. She, apparently is Intuitive, and I am Sensate. She makes AN answer, while I stand around and try to find out THE answer. We both get it wrong...

Reply to
Old Nick

Excellent post Lew, I wish I'd read it before installing my system as there are a few things I'd do differently.

A few tips given to me by the installer/sales guy were 1,2,3 and 5. Plus he mentioned the plastic is more thermally stable than pipe.

The other tip he gave was to coil the hose from the compressor to the system on the concrete as it will help cool the air somewhat before it went into the main line.

I did consider using 2" to 4" pipe but I had to run it behind a roller door where I didn't have the space available.

Your post would make a good FAQ.

cheers,

Greg

Reply to
Groggy

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