So I put the CMT combo blade on my JTAS so that the ipe rail cap job that
I'm doing will not cream my WWII that I keep on the saw. Milling 60' of
fairly complicated railing out of 2x6, mostly curly, very dense ipe. The
CMT is reasonably sharp, but fades about halfway through the initial rips
(lots of work to push the Ipe through the saw...too much work). Looking
with a small hand microscope, the silica in the ipe (which glitters like
diamond after a crosscut) has eroded the edges of the CMT's teeth. I'll
send it to Forrest for sharpening...from experience I know that it will
come back without a trace of CMT logo or teflon, but much sharper than when
My Amana is out getting sharpened, so it's back to the WWII 10 x 30 that's
been on for over a year, caked with resin from some pine. Already done
more than it's fair share of Ipe, oak, 6061/6063, and Lexan. After the
mill work (fills two 30 gallon Onieda dust bins with curly ipe dust and
shavings - almost too heavy to lift), I pulled the blade, wash with Simple
Green to clean all the resin gunk off, and put it back on. Test rip with
some oak - still looks pretty much handplaned. Maybe I'll hold off on
sending it in for sharpening.
Seems like I spent $85 at Woodcraft for that 10x30 during a 10% off sale.
About 20 bucks more than the CMT or the two Oldhams I keep for tenoning
(spacer set works well). $20 is about five double lattes, half a DC
parking ticket, or about 60% of my monthly cable bill.
Come to think of it, I had a Freud and a WWII on the last table saw (a 20mm
arbor Swiss Inca 259), and the WWII went 3 or 4 times longer than the Freud