I understand now why it's important for raised panel bit to have bearings,
to be able to do the cruves. Plus CMT comes with two size, bigger one for
first pass, and a smaller final size.
Since I been into routering lately, I tend to do three passes on straight.
My question is I wonder if it would be easier on the carbide if I do a less
pass (do two passes instead of three)? So, doing three passes would be
easier to work with, but two passes would prolong the life of router bit?
This is regarding straight passes (no choice for curves, only two passes).
| I understand now why it's important for raised panel bit to have bearings,
| to be able to do the cruves. Plus CMT comes with two size, bigger one for
| first pass, and a smaller final size.
| Since I been into routering lately, I tend to do three passes on straight.
| My question is I wonder if it would be easier on the carbide if I do a less
| pass (do two passes instead of three)? So, doing three passes would be
| easier to work with, but two passes would prolong the life of router bit?
| This is regarding straight passes (no choice for curves, only two passes).
The more one hogs out in any 1 pass the harder it is on the bit as a whole.
Regardless of how many passes you take you are still removing the same
amount of wood. Fewer passes ='s more strain on the bit and carbide. More
strain on the carbide will increase the chance of breaking the carbide.
"hogs out" ==> force cut
I don't <quite> agree w/ these responses, however. Yes, if one over
feeds by pushing the material through faster than the cutter is able to
take it there is a chance of doing physical damage to the cutter. For a
good quality bit that is rarely an issue if it isn't forced, however.
They are designed to remove wood. The advantage of multiple passes is
essentially achieving a smoother finish at the expense of longer time to
make the piece.
The wear on the carbide is essentially directly proportional to the
linear feet cut---every pass is essentially the same--the tip cuts the
same material every time.
Well it can help with a smoother finish but you can make 2 passes and have
just as smooth of finish as if you take 6 passes. It all boils down to how
thin the LAST pass is. Up until that point you are simply removing wood.
Multiple passes saves hard wear on the equipment.
Not necessarily--some woods (such as red oak, in particular) tend to
splinter and one can end up w/ chunks removed that aren't fully
eliminated on a final pass...
As for the "wear and tear", if the equipment is sized for the job, it's
simply normal usage, not abuse.
Your are right. Oddly I just got finished making 24 raised panel doors out
of Red Oak. I find that a light pass to create the extent of width to
establish a crisp line followed by a more aggressive cut eliminates the
chunks being torn out. Not totally unlike the principal of back cutting to
prevent tear out. Then I finish with a thin finish cut.
In my (not so humble) opinion. If you are doing so many panels that you
are worried about wearing out a router bit, I would be more worried
about the router itself and maybe you should have a shaper.
If you are a hobbiest then go with the number of passes it takes to get
the nicest finish. This might vary with material.
If you are doing this for profit, do it the fastest way you can get a
good finish and buy a new bit when needed. Labor is a much bigger
percentage of your cost than router bits will ever be.
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