Rail and Stile set for glass doors

Just got the go ahead on a pretty good job for a doctors office here in town. A big reception thing with 3 counter tops all on different levels with several drawers and doors. 3 large book shelves and a big glass display case with 4 rail and stile glass doors.
I ain't never built no glass doors b-4 so heres where I need some help. Which router bit set do yall favor for them glass doors? I've found the freud, the cmt and the mlcs in order books but not sure which one to get.
Please help!! TIA Jack
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On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:02:56 -0600 (CST), snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jack Gray) wrote:

I'd lean toward the freud, but by a small margin. price and profile would probably drive the decision.     Bridger
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Thanks, I kinda figgered the frued was a safe bet. Just ain't used any of the glass door sets b-4. With the freud, you rip off a small strip and then just spot glue it back on behind the glass? You got to be able to get it back off in case the glass gets broke.
Thanks jack
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If there are no mullions, the easiest and best way is to use a regular door cutter set and glue up the frame (obviously with no panel). Then, route out the back so the groove is exposed.
Preston

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Had'nt thought about that. I don't build many glass doors anyway. Then just rip a small strip of matching wood and capture the glass with it.
Thanks jack
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Jack Gray) wrote in 3272.bay.webtv.net:

You don't even have to install the small strip back in. You can buy the glass holders. I think woodcraft is where I bought mine. If you use the strips you will probably want to put some sort of material between the wood and glass to keep it from rattling.
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Hi, Jack.
I use the Freud set - excellent kit. Invest in a router/TS height setting gauge as well - Trend do a good one fairly cheaply. When you're prepping your stock run off a few feet extra for practice runs, backing blocks and in case of balls-ups. Take pains with getting your stock accurately square - if the face side and its opposite side are not *exactly* flat and parallel, a door system like this will accentuate the errors. From this point of view, you're best to go ahead with your door machining ASAP after you prep the stock.
When you're doing a large run of doors, it's very easy to get mixed up and find yourself eg running the moulding on the wrong side of the stock, so mark everything up face side and edge and organise your machining operations. Don't economise on your stock either, and pay particular attention to the MC. It's a real bummer when your beautiful doors either warp or shrink - DAMHIKT!
Cheers,
Frank

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