the way I feel about the RAS is that no complete shop should be
without one, but that it should be the last machine you buy.
it can be set up to do a bunch of things, a few of them well and the
rest of them less well.
where that versatility comes in handy is mid stream in a project when
you have all of your other machines set up for something specific and
need to stay set up for a while and you need to make that one dado or
whatever. takes but a few minutes to task the RAS and you're back in
the rest of the time just use it for cutoff. that's one of the things
it does well.
I don't have one yet. there are a lot of things ahead of it on the
How in the world do you rip plywood with the RAS? It's arm only moves
about 2 feet. Do you just fix the unit in place then move the plywood
itself through the blade? I'm confused on this one, sorry, but I'm new
to woodworking and especially the RAS.
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 06:44:01 -0800, Basspro* wrote:
You rotate the motor 90 degrees counterclockwise for an outrip or 90
degrees clockwise for an inrip. You then lock the motor on the arm with
the blade parallel to the fence and at the desired rip width. Make
sure the rear of the guard is rotated down just above the work piece
as a hold down and any anti-kickback pawls and splitter on the front
of the guard are adjusted to the workpiece. Feed the stock held against
the fence and against the rotation of the blade. Use pushsticks to keep a
safe distance at the end of the cut. Beware of very narrow rips or very
Generally the fence on a RAS is set to the front of the saw.
This makes it easier to use for most operations. A few more
inches of rip capacity can be gained by setting the fence to
the base/ column.
The length of fence is limited only by the length of
straight lumber you can find or make. Same as a table saw.
Except the fence doesn't necessarily extend into the work
area, or hang off another fence.
The fence is normally set to the backside of the front table and held in
place by a clamping action between the front table and the back table(s).
The rear table is usually in two pieces - on my saw, a 3" wide middle
table and a 5-1/2" rear table. The fence can be clamped between the
middle and back table to gain 3" of table space or behind the back table
to gain 8-1/2" of table space for ripping. Positioning the fence behind
the middle table also allows crosscutting 3" wider thin material than the
normal fence position.
"It's not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the
strong man stumbled, or where the doer of deeds could have done better.
Ah, had a tough time with the LH miters on the RAS? Tis easy to do, make an
auxiliary "broken fence" fence 90 degs to normal, swing to the right hand
miter position, place the aux fence so that you cut at the miter mark and
feed you LH miters in straight into the saw.
I've uploaded a drawing of the broken fence to abpw.
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
BUT NO CMS....
The RAS is used only for cut off work..shortining long boards etc... and has
not moved off 90 degrees in over 20 years...I will ocassionally use it to do
dados since it is much easier to do with a RAS then a Tablesaw...
To me unless the Dewalt RAS is selling for less then a tank of gasoline and
you have room for it in your shop I honestly would PASS... I thought about
replacing my RAS with a CMS but honestly I have not come up with any reason
to .... TODAY if I were a young man justr setting up shop I would have a CMS
instead of the RAS BUT I sure would not go out and buy a RAS if I already
had a CMS...
Just my opinion...
Thanks Bob for the info and advice. I did buy it for $40. Its such an
old Dewalt that it doesn't have the Dewalt colors that Dewalt sells by
now. Its more of a tannish dark yellow instead of the bright yellow.
However this seems to be a good saw and it'll probably hardly get used
but when I need it it'll be there.
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