Radial Arm Saw usage

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Michael White wrote:

Hasven't had my morning coffee yet so I'm missing your point here. If, however, its what I think it is, that manual you downloaded should tell you generally how to snug things up. If it's a worn part you may have some difficulty but as I recall there are numerous minor adjustments that can be made to snug things up on all the mechanicals.

As in a keyhole slot to either side (outboard) of the base frame or, perhaps, right on it, dead center? The smaller portion of the hole is to the rear, correct? That's where the thumb screw like clamp for the rear tables/fence go. IF you don't have the screws any longer then you'll just have to buy some from Sears or Jerry-Rig something. Once you see the manual you'll understand what is needed. Should not be a major problem regardless

That or those probably disappeared when the table was replaced. Again, you'll see it/them once you get your hands on a manual, most likely any Sears manual. It is used to adjust the center of the table to keep it flat. Piece of cake. Get a drive in t-nut, drill the appropriate sized hole for the set screw, insert setscrew in counter-bored (from the top) hole and adjust as necessary. Just make sure to size the screw so that it doesn't intrude more than half the thickness of the top. You don't want to "adjust" it with your carbide tipped blade. It would probably work but then you'd have other problems<g>

Cool. No scale means no problems<g>
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Michael White wrote:

...
...
This doesn't make any sense to me...if you're making a 4' long cut you have to be ripping and to have one end wider than the other at the end of a rip means something has moved during the cut???
At first I was thinking the rollers on the arm are sloppy and I suppose you could still be canting them...if so, they should be mounted on eccentrics so they can be snugged up to the rail--you want them "just under" the point at which it is hard to move the head but not sloppy.
I suppose you could also have a loose yoke lock or simply the structure isn't rigid enough...I don't know this saw so don't know how sturdy it is (or isn't)...
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On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 05:02:27 GMT, Michael White

Yes. The table alignment procedure for a radial arm saw, well described in the book, is consistent throughout the world of RAS' for the most part, even if there are some differences in certain specifics (control locations and fasteners, for example). There are also some usage examples that are applicable in principle across the RAS spectrum. It's also interesting reading just to learn a little about the history of the RAS.
--
LRod

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Michael White wrote:

No need to post photos, your table isn't made right. RS tables normally have 3 pieces...the front table which is permanently fixed and 2 back table pieces, each of which is a different width. The combined width of the two back tables must be sufficient to place the saw blade behind the fence.
The reason for the two back table pieces is that either can be removed when ripping to place the blade closer to the column when in/out ripping.
I never rip on my RAS so my back table is just one piece approximately 8" wide.
I'd suggest you buy a manual for your saw.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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dadiOH wrote:

Not totally removed but moved in front of the fence to reposition the fence closer to the column.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
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dadiOH ( snipped-for-privacy@wherever.com) wrote on Wednesday 17 August 2005 09:10 am:

Any clue where I can get a manual for this? I did some searching, and since the model number starts with "103", it was made by "King Seeley", which was bought out by Emerson in 1964.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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Michael White wrote:

You may not find a manual specific to your saw but most any would do. Sears sells/used to sell a red, soft cover book that covered several tools including the RAS.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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I'd like to see a photo of how you have this saw set up. Can you post one?
--
Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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Here it is:
http://michael12.home.mindspring.com/saw.jpg
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 04:49:02 GMT, Michael White

looks like somebody set it up with a fence further back than it probably should be to try to squeeze a little more capacity out of it. this doesn't mean it's proper to cut from the outboard position. looks to me like it's time to make a new table...
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Countertop maker?
It's a sheetgoods specialist of some sort.
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Ahhh. $100 says they used it exclusively for ripping. The carriage got turned around to the crosscut position for sale/delivery. Probably the first time it had been that way for years.
--
LRod

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This is the typical setup:
http://www.thebuyer.ca/IMAGES/5-5.jpg with the saw resting behind the fence.
Dave
wrote on Sunday 14 August 2005

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On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 06:27:02 -0400, "David Bridgeman"

On my 1972 Sears RAS the rear table is actually two pieces--one about 2" wide and the other about 4 or 6" wide. I can't categorically say they were all that way, but all the ones I've seen were.
I think the 2" piece is intended to always be at the back and is what the table clamps bear against. I'll have to look at the manual and see what it says about it. It's been years...
The wider piece is either behind the fence (normal operation) or in front of it, depending on whether or not you're ripping and need the extra capacity.
--
LRod

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Surprised this hasn't come up yet. There's a pretty good chance that your saw is covered by a recall. The recall is specifically for the guard, but since the new guard will not fit with the original table, they also send you a nice new table. IIRC, it is totally free to you, and comes with very good instructions for how to align your saw. Go here for all the details:
http://radialarmsawrecall.com
-John
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The recall is only for Craftsman saws manufactured by Emerson. Unless someone gave it a paint job along with the table modifications, that doesn't look like a Craftsman to me.
Lee
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"I've owned my 1970's vintage Craftsman radial arm saw for about six years now"
...so I assumed he meant it was a Craftsman. :)
-John
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John Girouard ( snipped-for-privacy@girouard.com) wrote on Wednesday 17 August 2005 10:31 am:

Interesting site, but mine doesn't qualify. It -is- a Craftsman, but the model number starts with a 103, not a 113. Even if it did, it's a 9" saw, which does not have a retrofit kit. Instead, I'd have to send them then carriage and motor assembly to get $100. This, of course, would destroy my saw.
Thanks for the info.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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John Girouard ( snipped-for-privacy@girouard.com) wrote on Wednesday 17 August 2005 10:31 am:

Looks like my dating was off. The guy I bought it from said it was from the '70s, but some internet searching puts it at 1964, at the latest. Sorry for the bad info.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
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When I purchased my RAS a few years ago, it was set up in similar fashion to yours. The top was made of particle board and the fence appeared to be an old wooden bed rail attached to the very rear of the top, behind the blade. The guy I bought it from gave me a song and dance about having received it from his son and not having enough space for it in his basement. However, his basement looked plenty big to me so I'm guessing that in its improper configuration he was never able to figure out how to use it safely and decided to ditch it. And that's how I was able to purchase it for just $75. Fortunately, my saw qualified for the Craftsman recall and I got a nice new table top free of charge, although I did have to supply my own fence(s) which I made out of 3/4" MDF and installed in it's proper location in front of the blade.
Lee
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