Questionf or Unisaw 100, re How To Make A Zero Clearance Insert With Splitte



I'm on my way to doing this. OK, I did step one today and bought a sheet of MDF. Well, something similar anyway.
A 2 x 4 sheet of MDF is $6 with tax. I can get about 18 inserts from it or a cost of 33 each. Since that is kind of pricey, I bought a full sheet of sheetrock instead. Cost per insert sill be about 8 each. Great idea huh!!!
My question is, what type of paint should I put on the sheetrock? Is gloss latex better than the flat? I would think the wood being cut would slide better that way. I'd be interested in knowing your experiences of using sheetrock to make zero clearance inserts. I think I'm really onto something here and maybe you and I can sell them as an economical alternative to those expensive MDF ones.
I'll go back tomorrow for the screws.
Ed
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wrote:

Depends on the color. IMHO, good inserts are red.
As Home Depot is the preeminent wooddorking supply house, I'll bet someone in an orange apron would know exactly which paint is best.
If you're using sheetrock instead of MDF, don't forget to use drywall screws for leveling the insert!
Barry
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If I eat beets first so the spittle's purple, can I use MDF from Co-op instead of the Borg?
Curiously,
djb
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Dave Balderstone wrote:

P U R P L E ! ! !
YouAyeOneHunnert
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I'm on my way to Co-op!
djb
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I'm expecting some rat bastard turd heel will up and steal it, send it to Fine Wooddorking and walk away with a Urine Yellow planer for sure.
My question, onna 'count of I like the cut of your jib, is, could you maybe thin some ee-pox-ee and maybe soak the sheet rock innit?
T'would seem to maybe make the inserts last longer.
UA100
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Unisaw A100 wrote:

Yeah, it would make them stiffer and we all know stiffer is better.
On a serious note, I did follow your instructions and cut out six blanks. Just had time to make the templae tonight, but is sure is easy enough to do. I recently bought a dado blade and now I'll have an assortment of inserts to go with some different widths.
After making one now, I'm embarrased to admit I actually bought one for $15 las year. That won't happen again.
Thanks for the simple instructions. (even if I had to make four trips to HD to get the parts)
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Ed
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I paid $20 for mine (Xmas money/found money, i.e., the rule of buying something foolish with found money) but I'm figuring that with all the reproductions and the $$$ I'm saving...
'Sides, you can always eBay it later. Just be sure to have a hunnert dollar reserve on it.

And that's a bad thing?
UA100
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Its sad, but someone is probably going to have to post a detail method of cleaning sheetrock dust out of a TS motor.
Thanks for the laugh.
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