Question(s) about Waterlox finish

Picked up Waterlox satin finsh at Woodcraft. Using it on Mahogany. They said to make a slurry by sanding the wood with 220 sandpaper, it would fill the pores for a smoother finish. Is 220 fine enough? Should I sand between coats or use steel wool? Is it o.k. to use wax over the finish or polyurethane or just two coats of the finish and leave it alone? It's for a corner display case. Also thougght about using "Roberts Sealer", but don't know how that would age. Thanks for any help/suggestions. Jimmy
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wrote:

For sanding a slurry, yes.

Use the 220 sandpaper lightly until the grain is filled, then switch to 400. Use steel wool to adjust sheen and possibly apply wax.

Yes! In fact, a dark wax is GREAT on mahogany.

Waste of time. Waterlox _is_ the finish, suitable for floors!

To fill the grain, you'll need more than two coats.

That would work fine on mahogany, but Waterlox already contains oil, so the final look will be the same.
Personally, I'd take advantage of the extra-fast drying time of Robert's Sealer and Seal Coat sanding sealer, and smoother, 320 grit paper, to fill the grain. I'd probably do two coats of Roberts, then add full strength Seal Coat coats until smooth. You'll have to wait overnight between coats of Waterlox, as it attracts dust and junk all the while. I would not apply straight Seal Coat as the first coat, as this will prevent oil from penetrating the wood and eventually adding a pleasing tone.
You'd need a total of 4-5 applications of Seal Coat and Robert's sealer to fill the grain completely, but you can sand it in an hour or so. If you don't mind waiting, you can apply the early coats of Waterlox with a foam brush, build 'till smooth, and then wipe on the last coat after a final 400 grit sanding.
I suggest trying the whole shebang on scrap prepared identically to your project. A hard worked project is an awful place to learn a new finishing method.
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Bonehenge (B A R R Y) wrote: ...

WHAT HE SAID! :)
Most important of all the excellent advice and tips...
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