Question on wall mounted cabinet.

In my kitchen there is a soffit ringing the three walls. I trimmed back part of one soffit where built in oven and broiler were to keep all the soffit's to a 14" depth. It is basically a 9 X 9 "U" shaped kitchen style. The window being at the bottom of the "U". Soffit goes across the window top.
I was wanting to build 14" wall cabinets with a 15" corner cabinet (15"D X 23" W one wall, 23"W X 15"D window wall) with resulting door at an angle. One on each side of the window. There is to be a molding at the top of the cabinets basically to hide the soffit edge, as it was not installed straight when the house was built. So I figured I could straighten it all out with the cabinets and molding.
My question is, would that look klutzy since the molding would be free standing from the soffit by about 3/4" or so? If not would running LED lights behind the molding for soft lighting be overkill if I were to install them?
PS; I was also hoping for a little more storage space.
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On 1/5/2016 1:12 PM, OFWW wrote:

it I don't think it would matter if it were not against the soffit.
That would be a good place to put ribbon LED or rope lighting directing light up.\
If I understand you here. ;~)
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Yes, lights up. As to the molding, nailed to the top of the cabinet just below the Soffit, like this " / "
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OFWW wrote:

I would make the cabinet less deep than the soffit by a couple of inches, butt the cabinet to the soffit bottom as much as possible, keeping the cabinet level, and use a piece of molding to hide any gap (3/4 x 3/4 cove molding looks good and bends easily).
You COULD do what you are proposing but the depth of the soffit may well vary (due to taping, mud, et al) and it can be a real problem getting things flush. If you go that way, the molding appearance will be improved (IMO) by using a thin molding, cutting a cove into top and bottom edges or both (thin + coves). I'd forget the LED lights.
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wrote:

used studs on 16" Ctr, and studs between them to nail the cabinets up by using a block nailed to the ff and then nail up. but yes, there is that drywall mud variable which might account for the bulge on the horizontal run parallel to the wall.
Once I removed the molding from the top of the existing cabinets I could see all the gaps between the drywall and the tops of the them. On the west side of the kitchen the cabinet is sagging enough from the weight of dishes and glasses over 40 years of usage and If I don't replace those before another earthquake I'd bet they would be all over the floor, looking like a Greek wedding party floor. ;)
I was going to use rail runners in the tops of the cabinet, specifically so I would have the freedom to nail or screw to the studs or 2x4 blocks they have nailed up there. Thought I would use a stud finder after the cabinets are fully down to mark the spots.
Thanks for your insight!
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