hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo setup, I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a 2HP black & decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used on a router table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using plunge routers
TIA
These days a 3HP Milwaukee is getting favorable comments as a table router.
Lew
The most appropriate router nowadays is at least 2hp, maybe 2.5 or 3 and has a plunge base with a built in ability to set the height from above the table. This can save you the money of an expensive raiser setup and give you the conveinience of the above the table adjust.
Lots ofd times they sell kits with both types of bases so you at least still have a fixed base to keep for hand work and you just need to dr> hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
Depends. Do you have a way to fasten the router down securely when using it in the table? If not, then you need to find out how to do that first before doing anything else. Otherwise, get another router.
Thank you all very much, your answers were just what I needed
For the most part, you're right except that Jessem offers a Milwaukee router without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting. It appears to be permanently wired into a separate power/speed controller so adding a base (if there's one that fits) to it for free hand routing would be awkward at best.
everything they make if I could afford it. :-)
I don't know of any router that cannot be used on a router table. That said different style routers are better suited for router table use. Typically the best routers to use are the newer style combo routers that work as a plunge or fixed base router all in one. The Triton router is an example of this. IIRC PC has a router that falls in this category and perhaps other brands as well. Next would be the fixed base with a router lift of some type followed by just a fixed base router and finally a plunge router.
For the most part any of the styles will perform the same "once adjusted". Ease of accurate adjustments is what it is all about when choosing a router for the router table.
Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have been emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router table or for hand held use. The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or fine tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The fan does not let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not running.
From the blurb about the router motor on Jessem's web site:
"15 AMP, 3-1/2 MAX HP "
Never happen!!
It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100% electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP in their advertising literature.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
The fine tune adjustment is very easy to use providing you have access to the router under the table and you mount the router with the adjustment knob on the front side. Like a typical plunge router it has a lock lever to lock the height setting in any position. You release that lever, IIRC it is adjustable to most any position, turn the coarse handle for fast adjustments, and then turn the fine tune knob for zeroing in on the final adjustment. You can use the fine adjustment knob to move the router through out the whole distance that the motor will travel, so it does not reach a limit similar to the limits of the fine tune knob on the Bosch 1617 fixed base router. I have that router also.
I have never used the router as a hand held. It is always hanging under the table and I use the dust port built into the fence for collection.
I have the bigger model and bought it when it was originally in the $300 range and was the only Triton router choice and do not regret paying more.
A couple of things to consider but keep in mind I am not one that really cares about how a tool looks so much as how well it performs. I am going to sound critical here but I am not saying this to scare you away.
My router was and I suspect that they continue to be made in China. Like the complaints about cheap materials appearance used for the interiors of some cars the Triton plastic looks cheap. Does this affect anything at all, NO. The metal parts look like you would expect from any brand.
The fine adjustment knob has a bit of play. The bit height is not immediately affected by the initial movement of the knob. Keep in mind that the bit height does stay consistent once the movement starts but it typically takes about 1/16 of a turn to get the bit moving in either direction. Not a problem with me as the knob still allows accurate adjustments. IIRC a full turn moves the bit about 1/16", and about 2 full turns of the coarse adjustment handle/knob to go from full up to full down and visa versa.
The collet is a very quick release and tighten design. From fully tight to fully loose, enough for the bit to come out, is about 1/8" turn so leverage will be your friend. The threads are more coarse than those on most routers. I am not a fan of lock shaft routers as I prefer to work two wrenches against each other to loosen or tighten the collet, however with the lock shaft on the Triton it is much easier to remove the bit from above the table with 1 wrench above the table. You do not have to hold a lock to lock the shaft. A safety feature requires the router to be turned off to raise/lower the router enough to loosen the collet and this same feature automatically locks the shaft when the collet is in the bit removal position. Moving the bit back to an operating spot automatically unlocks the shaft and allows you to turn the router back on.
Would I buy it again? Yes but I would take a look at the offerings again and only change brands if I found something better.
I'm in the market for a new router since my 3hp Makita was stolen from my best friend's garage. How easy is the fine adjustment with the Triton? And second, how well does the dust port work for chip extraction? I'm looking at the 3 1/4 HP model.
Thanks
What's even stranger is that some manufacturers offer a 2.x horse router and a 3.x horse. The 2s usually draw 12 amps and the 3s 15. One horse out of three amps ain't perpetual motion, but it's close!
It seems that makers of tools such as drills, routers, and the like always quote the maximum power. The average power of a single phase motor is half of the maximum power. Hence both average hp of 1 3/4 is the same as maximum hp of 3 1/2. The amount of work that you can do is more closely associated with the average horsepower.
Jim
I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.
I read somewhere, some time ago, that an easy way to beat the weatherman's forecast accuracy is to simply take today's reported weather and use that for tomorrow's forecast.
But weather is a chaotic system and the forecasters really do a pretty good job of near term forecasting. On the other hand, above the quantum level, the physics of electricity is a deterministic system and there's no excuse for that kind of inaccuracy. Misleading at best, fraud at worst.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
I'm trying to imagine a real 3 hp router. I think it might be a little top heavy ;)
Anything with a universal motor in it they pull that crap.
The advice I would give as far as router tables go, don't even worry about all the above the table adjustment stuff. You have to go under the table to lock and unlock the height anyway, so wtf is the point? It's easier to just turn a knob than get your adjustment wrench and get it inserted and engaged.
-Kevin
"Leon" wrote in news:4osxl.12749$ snipped-for-privacy@flpi150.ffdc.sbc.com:
I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger Triton in my table and absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will take anything I throw at it and laugh!
YMMV
Steve
Really no more so than when you start turning the knob. Absolutely the adjustment is visual if you need to be more accurate than 1/128" and could lead to errors if you absolutely insist on depending on the turn of the knob to indicate an exact movement. Does this keep you from making accurate adjustments NO. Like finishes I never experiment with a setting on the actual project pieces. Because it takes more time to zero the bit and make some calculated adjustment from there vs. simply eye balling every result of an adjustment on a scrap I have never depended on an exact movement when turning the knob. Even if the adjustment could be that accurate I would still run a test piece to verify "I" did not make an adjustment mistake. I have always viewed the bit height adjustment as being similar to setting the rip fence on my TS. I look at the indicator on the fence to locate the fence, I look at the bit height to set the height. If I do a particular set up often I will keep scraps to use as set up blocks. YMMV
Having said this I have used plunge routers for many years in a router table set up. Fine adjustments were a real hassle as the next adjustment might be "much" farther off than the previous adjustment. At least with the Triton each adjustment can be minute and always closer to the desired setting. You can get very close to a mark on the wood with the coarse adjustment, the fine adjustment knob will zero in on that mark pretty accurately visually, close enough that bit chatter would probably enter more error into the mix.
In your case you may have different needs and depending on an exact movement in relation to a given amount of the turn of the knob may be a necessity given your circumstances. You may not have the luxury of achieving the same results using a differnt method.
If you need the dial adjustment accuracy I would suggest a fixed base router and after market precision mechanical lift combination. The draw back there is that you can expect to spend in the $400 range for the lift alone. If you are a big fan of the "Incra" style TS rip fences and the way they adjust, the seperate lift may be the better choice.
It was my pleasure. While I consider the Triton to be a fine tool it certainly does not follow the leader or focus on achieving results in the same way that many would expect. I just wanted you to be aware of those differences. While it is always a hassle to return something, Woodcraft has a return policy of 90 days IIRC, no questions asked so you are not locked in to a purchase that you might determine to be short of your requirements or expectations.
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