Question on fitting 1/8" solid oak trim to oak plywood


I am making a stand alone kitchen pantry for my daughter and son-in-law out of oak plywood. I plan to dress the visible edges with strips of 1/8" solid oak. For those of you who have done this before, do you butt the oak trim at the corners or do you miter it? If you miter it, what do you make the cuts with? I have a hand miter box but the saw is still too coarse to cut something that thin. I guess I could make a 45 degree cut on a wide board and then cut off the 1/8" strips if it is worth the trouble because mitered corners look that much better than butting the edges. What do you think?
TIA.
Dick Snyder
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If it were a fine piece of furniture I would say miter the corners with thicker stock. With edging that thin I would say butt joint the corners.
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There is a special tool called a knife or an even more specialized tool called a chisel....
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No need to be sarcastic Mike. Of course a chisel will cut but not likely at a perfect 45 degree angle.

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On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 08:56:57 -0500, "Dick Snyder"

Assuming you have a table saw you can make yourself a miter sled that will do it. Picture a piece of plywood straddling the two miter slots with runners that slide in them, then add another piece of plywood at a 45 degree angle such that the point is centered on the blade. Normally this would allow you to cut complementary angles ensuring a perfect 90 degree corner even if you didn't perfectly align the jig to 45 degrees, but given the length of the pieces you are cutting depending on how much room around the saw you have you may have to make do with cutting them all on one side. The jig will provide enough support that cutting thin material is no problem. However I think butt joints would look just as good in this application.
-Leuf
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Dick Snyder wrote:

You could make balls-on accurate miters with a shooting board set up for 45 degree miters. I have a straight shooting board that converts to a miter shooting board by screwing on a wide board that is mitered to a perfect 45. No tearout, and no angle mistakes.
dave
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On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 08:56:57 -0500, "Dick Snyder"

Miter the corners. Something that thin needs a fine-toothed saw blade such as a dovetail saw--even a hacksaw might work well. One-eighth inch is a bit narrow--I'd use 1/4" thick or more. You can also back the strips up with scrap for more support while cutting. Best tool is be a miter slicer, the kind used in making picture frames.
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Dick Snyder wrote:

Depends. If it is something like a shelf where one doesn't see the sides I butt. Come to think of it, I almost always butt even if the sides *do* show.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
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I have always done this the same way I would a face frame. Run the sides full length and butt the cross pieces.
Bruce
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Haven't read all the responses, so maybe this has already been suggested... I do this a lot, and for really critical work, I use a modeler's razor saw and a homemade miter box.You can buy a very fine tooth modeler's saw from any hobby shop and make a 45 degree miter box in about 10 mins. For most stuff, I just butt the corners. When its sanded and the corner is broke, its almost invisible.

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