Question for Ridgid Bandsaw Owners


I have a question for anyone who has a Ridgid 14 inch Bandsaw with a riser block. I have a chance to get a good deal on this saw, but I have a couple hundred miles to drive, and would like to know what size the nut and bolt are to dissassemble the upper half from the riser block. The person who now has the saw has no idea, no hand tools, and I'll have to bring my own. I know this is an odd, large size, there is no room for an adjustable wrench to fit, and I can't afford to buy a whole set of extreme size combination wrenches.
So, if anyone would be so kind as to slip a combination wrench over the nut and bolt on their riser block, I would appreciate it very, very much.
tt
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I'd love to help you dude, but as of yet, I don't have a riser on mine. You might try to ping Mac. He's been a wealth of info to me. Anything else, I'd be more'n happy to help ya with!
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My 14" riser used the same size bolt as the saw came with, only longer. Haven't a clue as to size of Ridgid
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I have the griz block on the ridgid... I couldn't get to the top of the bolt because it's behind a shop vac switch, but I'd guess that the nut on the bottom is 20mm... (my largest is 19mm and it was a bit too small)
A 15/16 fit but was a bit sloppy, 7/8 was too small..
I actually found the original Ridgid bolt after a brief search and it was also loose with a 15/16 but would work..
That said, if possible I'd leave the saw as intact as I could unless you're trying to get it into your trunk or something... My guess is that if you don't have a truck, the saw without the stand would probably lay across a back seat.. Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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On Tue, 08 Aug 2006 08:02:59 -0700, mac davis

Thanks Mac,
Doing the math, partway between 15/16 and 7/8 would be 23mm, so maybe I'll try to scrounge one of those and a 15/16. There is a W-T Tool near here, and I should be able to get a crappy Chinese wrench pretty cheap.
I'd prefer to leave it intact, but I've got to get the saw up basement stairs and into my truck, alone. In my younger days I would have tried it without thinking, but I'm not sure I can haul that much iron alone, anymore. It hurts thinking about it.
Thanks for the info.
tt
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Think "hand truck".. *g*
My guess is that the wheel was NOT invented by a 19 year old who was bullet proof and immortal..

Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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Mac - Thanks for the photo's of the 'sty' . . .
At least that's the 'inference' from Joanne about my shop . . . and yours is a WHOLE LOT more 'dense' then mine !!
Regards & Thanks again, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop {' I don't care what you do . . . but you are NOT turning the lawn & garden into a 'Nantucket Backyard !!' - - - It should only be !!!!}
SNIP

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A 15/16 socket fits the nut on my Ridgid bs perfectly. I don't know about the bolt because there isn't room to get a socket on it and I don't have a wrench that big. You might want to bring along visegrips or channellocks in case it spins on you.
Btw, if you happen to live near SE Michigan my 4 month old Ridgid is for sale and includes the riser and the herculift base.
John
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How much?
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$300 - here's a link in case the pics are helpful-
http://detroit.craigslist.org/tls/190088824.html
The saw works perfectly.
The riser kit isn't installed and doesn't include a blade (long story).
I'll be glad to show receipts for the purchases and of course you're free to make some cuts with it. In fact I'd really like to see some veneer slicing.
John
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Nice deal.... I am heading up to Niagra falls next week from Cincinnati, for some reason I was thinking this wouldn't be too far out of the way, but now that I look at mapquest it's bit further than I thought.. :(
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It's a nice saw, I have one and am very happy with it. My only complaint is that the guide blocks on the front have two thumb screws making it hard to see what you are cutting.
II Locutus wrote:

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'Sheep' . . .
While I don't have a Ridgid {mine is a JET}, my BS came with thumbscrews, as well. What I was concerned about wasn't 'seeing' but tightening. I had to use pliers to get enough grip to snug down {NOT 'Gorella Tight'}the tension.
My solution was to get a half-dozen {a couple of 'extras'}hex socket cap screws. A dab or two of bright RED paint on the heads . . . and 'Bob's Your Uncle' !! I already had a pair of 'Pocket Knife' hex wrench sets, but it could have been easy enough to get a single wrench with the screws. I did this with the scrollsaw blade holder, and use a small magnet to hold the wrench to the base. However the BS has the potential to vibrate so I would have put it in the plastic 'parts box' on the shelf I made to fit the 'Open Stand'.
Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

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I just installed the riser block this weekend. The instructions call for a 26mm combo wrench. I could swear I used 15/16" (don't have a metric that large) and I just fit it over the bottom nut (it was loose), which does look a tad smaller than the bolt head (behind the switch now so can't check it). I used a crescent for the other (thought I used the 15/16" on the upper though) end.
There is clearly room for a crescent wrench on the bottom (nut end) and maybe on top. You could definitely fit a channel lock plier over the top end of the bolt. So that would save you buying any combo wrench, assuming you have a crescent that can open 1".
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snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.net wrote:

Mine is a Ridgid purchased at BORG last Fall. The riser block is also a Ridgid, purchased on Ebay about the same time, but it was a different part number than the one specified in the book that came with the saw.
The nut on mine measures .930" which is slightly under 15/16 (which is .9375"). I can't get in with the caliper to measure the bolt head, but it's definitely bigger than the nut. 26mm is probably about right.
--Steve
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wrote:

Thanks to everyone that responded. That narrows down the choices to just a few, and I'll pick up a couple of the odd sizes just to make sure. Now if my back holds up, I'll have a nice new old saw.
tt
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Last year I had to get a couple of hot water heaters out of my basement by myself, and my back has seen better days.
I removed the basement door and laid some plywood over the treads to make a ramp. A 4x4 across the door opening gave me something to hook a comealong to. It was pretty easy thanks to the water heater being slippery. For a bandsaw I'd probably use a hand truck laying on it's back and do something to keep the rubber handles off the plywood, or maybe use a furniture dolly - nah, balancing a bandsaw would be too difficult.
Two things that both come into play when you reach the top of the stairs: the 4x4 needs to be off the floor enough so the saw can side under it, and hook your comealong cable to about the midpoint of the saw so it doesn't become useless with 3 or 4 stairs to go.
Good luck.
John
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