I bought a used Delta 37-190 jointer last fall. The knives were somewhat
nicked up but I used it during the winter. Now that things have slowed down
on the woodworking front, I want to take the knives out to get them
sharpened. A new Delta 37-190 came with a couple of open end wrenches but
they didn't come with the used one. The wrench needed to losen the 4 locking
screws is a 5/16" wrench which I had but there is no way I can get those
locking screws to budge. Is there a trick to this that I am missing?
unequivocally which way you should move your arm from wherever you are
What I can say is that they are almost certainly RH thread, the locknut
needs to go _UP_ the bolt towards the head as if you were putting the
nut onto the bolt (not taking it off). Whichever direction it is that
does that will be right.
The obvious thing to try when something isn't working the way you're
going is try the other way... :)
I looked at the online manual--it doesn't appear there are locking nuts
on the gib screws on this jointer--scary!!! :(
But, given that there aren't, then the steps outlined (4 and 5) are to
loosen the locking bolts themselves (a) slightly each one to relieve
stress nearly uniformly, then (b) finish until can remove locking bar (gib).
All jointer heads I've had/have use the same system but have a locking
nut in addition to the screw; I was giving directions for that scenario.
In your case, if there really aren't locking nuts (you can tell if you
look carefully; if there are, they are at the end of the bolt torqued
against the gib not the cutter head side. The bolt head will be against
If there aren't two hex locations to put the wrench on for each of the
four locking bolts, that's a clue, too! :)
Anyway, assuming they're really _not_ there, then when you're at the
infeed end facing the outfeed end and the subject knife is at the top to
loosen the bolt you will turn it clockwise (as if you were tightening it
on the bottom side of the head in a conventional application of a bolt
where it would be as if it were holding tension on the bottom side of
the head against the gib; in this application it is actually in
compression pushing against the cutterhead on the top side of the bolt
If it still is tight, as somebody else suggested, make sure you have a
proper-fitting, good quality wrench (the manual suggests they're metric
now, not SAE) and give them a good rap w/ a hammer. You _don't_ want to
round over the corners on these puppies...
I believe the heads on our jointers are similar (Jet J6SX) and you have
3 small bolts holding the blades. To loosen, you push the wrench handle
towards the fence. Sounds like yours have really been torqued down and
may require a slight tapping with a small hammer to shock it loose. If
you suspect corrosion, try some liquid wrench treatment.
Why send the knives out when a flat piece of glass or your tablesaw top
and some sandpaper (100, 180, 220, 400, 600 grits) and a bit of your
time will have them sharp in about 10 minutes time. Look up ScarySharp.
manual suggests the same thing under the heading "Whetting Knives". After
reading the reply posts on this topic, I can see that I have been turning
the locking screws in the proper direction. I have a good set of wrenches
(Sears Craftsman from 1966) but the wrench is slipping and I am worried
about rounding over the screws. I am going to make one stab at finding a
number for Delta customer service to see if they have any suggestions. If
not, I will use your sandpaper suggestion.
where I live. I called them to find out if there was a central Delta service
number but when I told the guy my problem, he told me he had worked at Delta
since 1988 and was very familiar with my problem!! He said first of all that
even though the locking screws work with a 5/16" wrench, he has found that
an 8mm wrench is a tighter fit. He also said to get a punch, move down about
1/8" from the outward edge of one face and give it a sharp whack to loosen
it up. What great practical advice. If this fails I am going the sandpaper
route and pray that I never have to remove the cutters!
Whacking the bolts with a punch was the same advice that Car Talk gave
to "John from Houston" this Saturday, but he seemed a little wary.
He was asking for help with stuck bolts and stripped heads on his
vehicle. They also asked him about the quality of the tools he was
using. He said the wrenches were all from Snap-on. They asked him if
he was in the business. He said no, the government bought them for him.
Eventually, it emerged that his vehicle was 350 miles away, straight up,
and he just got back from working on it last week. :-) :-)
I just picked up a 37-190 jointer and tried to remove the blades too
and wen thru the same frustration of the tightened setscrews.
Yes, they do go ClockWise, they THREAD IN towards the blades to
relieve the pressure on the hold down bar. It is just a pressure fit.
They only turn about 1/2-3/4 turns until tight against the blade
I had to use the 8mm wrench and gently Tap it down and towards the
fence with a hammer while gently tugging on it or put a longer wrench
or breaker bar to get more leverage. I finally got all of mine
Remove the BLADE first, then the blade holder will slide right out.
You can then see the fine adjustment screws to align the blades.
It takes a while, after you get it all out, clean everything good and
snug them back up.
Good luck. :)
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