Do professionals glue boards together when building a cabinet raised
panel door that is more than 22"?. It would seem like it would have to
be readily available specially for shops that do cabinet making. It
seems that the widest hardwood that I can find is 16" and that is only
in one place about 50 miles from home. If you do have to glue boards
together what would be the professional way of doing it and what would
be good tools to use?
Sorry for all the questions.
thanks in advance for any help.
careful glue up with or without biscuits. be sure that they are FLAT
when you clamp them. use cauls if you must, to keep those suckers flat.
tools? biscuit cutter, clamps, plane or jointer, TS, surface planer
(optional if you have all the planes you need for flattening the doors).
not to mention a router table and raised panel, rail and stile bits...
Albert Lazo wrote:
Won't keep the panel flat. Will keep it from all the way acrossed the
but you'll get rippling instead. Less noticable though. Other option
is to use
hardwood ply - not the rotary cut but the sliced and layed up side by
like solid wood boards but much more stabile. Won't work for raised
panels but ...
If the panel is made of solid wood then don't make a tight fit. Cut 1/116
smaller for expansion or your glue joints will blow apart. We've used a
product called "Space Balls" in the grooves of the rails and stiles.
Nothing to do with Mel Brooks though.
"Traves W. Coppock" <newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote in
message (Tom) Crawled out of
Please pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by a caul? I am finding
definitions as a medical term and a bonnet worn by mennonites. Just wanting
to know the context of the term in woodworking.
a caul is a piece of scrap lumber that is clamped over the plane of
the panel you are glueing, often with a slight bow to give constant
contact when clamped down. using them is supposed to keep the pieces
from buckling or rippling. i never have used them, but i do have a
few friends that do and report great results.
this link will help, note that although not shown, if you cut 'V' notches in
the caul over the join you will not have to run the risk of damage later
when disassembling the jig. Another method is to place thin scrap between
the glue lines to space the caul off the glue line.
Always, I would even rip down that 16" wide board and edge glue it back
together depending on grain and the type of cut the stock is. When making
cabinet doors my preference for cut is quartersawn for stability but when
making doors you need a lot of it and it is premium lumber at the highest
On 17 Jan 2004 20:30:38 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Albert Lazo) wrote:
Professionals glue up panels all the time. It's very common. Try to
get the color and grain to match. I found using the same board cut
into pieces will give you the best color, since one board comes from
the same tree. Try to match the grain so that the seam disappears.
Use either brown or yellow carpenter's glue, whichever matches the
wood best. Joint the seam so that there are no gaps and make sure the
boards are absolutely flat and without a step at the seam when drying
in the clamps. Biscuits help with the alignment. Put everything
together dry, including the clamps, because once you apply the glue
work fast before it starts to set up.
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