Question about applying hardwood trim

Hi all,
I'm working on a little project and could use some advice.
I'm building a rectangular 24"x12"x3/4" thick platform out of hardwood veneered plywood. I want to add a half-round hardwood trim to the rectangle to give it a nice accent all the way around.
Question: What's a reasonable trim attachment strategy? I can envision using either a keyway (correct name?), or bicuits, or just carpenter's glue. Glue alone would not be strong enough though.
Are there other methods that produce nice tight lines and good strength?
Any advice for this newbie is appreciated.
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I use a blind nailer from Lee Valley Tools. It works great if you practice a little bit with some scrap first.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p2683&cat=1,41182
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Hi Abe, The "key way" or spline would work. Actually for most applications a good glue job is adequate. Biscuits apparently do not add much, if any strength. Cheers, JG
Abe wrote:

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I agree 100%. Most modern PVA type glues (Those designed for woodwork) are actually stronger than the timber they join. If you do not want to use clamps to hold the edges in place until the glue grips, Cut the heads of a couple of pins and drive them in to hold 'em. You can than punch them just below the surface and fill the holes with an appropriate wax putty, or alternatively you can secret nail them. Regards John
JGS wrote:

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On Friday 21 Jan 2005 5:44 am, Abe scribbled:

As others have pointed out, glue is plenty strong enough. After much experimenting with calmps, cauls, nails, etc, to apply trim, I now just use masking tape to clamp it. No real need for cauls. After applying the glue to both sides, slide the trim back and forth until it sticks (i.e. almost a rubbed joint), adjust and clamp it down with a whole bunch of pieces of tape (one every 3-4 inches or so). You might need to trim it later with a plane or trim router bit.
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You do not need a "keyway" on plywood. Yellow glue alone is enough to hold the trim. As others suggested you can brad nail or pin nail the trim until glue dries. If you do not want nails, you can glue up with cauls.Bore holes in scrap 2x material the same diameter as the half round.If you forstner bits use them, they cut cleaner.Rip in half, now you have half round caul with a square edge for clamps. Do all finishing on plywood first before glueup of trim. This way you can clean any glue spillage with a damp sponge. I'm assuming you will put on a clear top coat. Temporarily tape the glued trim to the plywood ,tape one caul to plywood , add caul on opposite side and clamp up. Figure on more clamps and cauls than you may need.I would imagine 6" centers at most.Make sure the top edge is even or slightly proud of the plywood. If top edge is a hair above you won't see it, if the plywood edge shows at all, it stands out like a sore thumb. mike mike
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My next project will probably require some plywood edging. Has anyone tried the "Burgess" bits? Rockler has them.
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------------ Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll try the PVA glue and clamps first. If that isn't adequate I'll move on to the other suggestions.
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Another tip. When banding w/hardwood I always run the band a little proud of the top and use a scraper to bring the band down flush with the veneer after the glue dries. Then a light sanding to finish the job. If you are unfamiliar with scrapers this is an excellent way to learn how to use them. One of the rare places I do manual in favor of machine. I have burned through the veneer too many times with a power sander and have never mused when using a scraper. I never tried it with ahalfdd round but it should be OK if you run it about 1/32 proud and finish it iou with sand paper after scraping.
Also, I often use tape in lieu of clamps but be carefull with grains that might pull up, like mahagony or oak.
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