Hello all. Well i'm going to ask a question tat I know has been around but
I'd like to see if there are any new opinions.
Should I use PVC or Metal ducting for my shop dust collection. And has
anyone used the longranger automatic blast gates from Penn State Industies?
Here's my situation. Small shop, about 15 x 14. I want to hook up my miter
saw, TS, Router Table and have a couple of optional hookups for thing like
sanding and my Drill press. I just got a small 1hp Delta DC. Didn't see the
need for much more. I'll only be running one tool at a time.
I've read all the pros and cons about PVC and Metal ducting. PVC cheap but
Grounding?? Metal no grounding. So what should I use? I would like to us
PVC. What about a mixture of both.
And I want to use the Longranger automatic bast gates. Are they any good.
Just seems like it would make life easy.
I'll post some pictures when its all set up.
|Hello all. Well i'm going to ask a question tat I know has been around but
|I'd like to see if there are any new opinions.
|Should I use PVC or Metal ducting for my shop dust collection. And has
|anyone used the longranger automatic blast gates from Penn State Industies?
|Here's my situation. Small shop, about 15 x 14. I want to hook up my miter
|saw, TS, Router Table and have a couple of optional hookups for thing like
|sanding and my Drill press. I just got a small 1hp Delta DC. Didn't see the
|need for much more. I'll only be running one tool at a time.
|I've read all the pros and cons about PVC and Metal ducting. PVC cheap but
|Grounding?? Metal no grounding. So what should I use? I would like to us
|PVC. What about a mixture of both.
My Jet DC-1100 is somewhere between Tool Crib and my house. When it
gets here, I'm plumbing with 4" PVC drainpipe. Four-inch metal vent
pipe is about twice the cost, which is reasonable, but the fittings,
tees, elbows, etc are outrageous.
FWW Magazine No. 153 had an article on the static discharge concerns
with plastic pipe. Bottom line, it isn't a concern. Creating sparks
by metal-to-metal contact in a pile of saw dust is more of a concern.
This issue is fueled by lots of emotion and little rational thought.
I maintain that expolding PVC dust collectors, and 'grounding' of PVC is an
urban myth with no basis in fact.
Nobody can provide a firsthand evidence of any such event, although those
who hold a low credibility threshold can recite stories from a brother in
laws cousin who overheard a conversation at AA.
What I find absurd is the thought that you can ground PVC. PVC is an
insulator. You cannot ground an insulator. Do you bother grounding the
wire insulation in your shop? No, because you already know you cannot
ground an insulator.
The biggest danger of fire a dust collection system poses is hitting a nail
with your table saw or other power tool and having the hot metal
fragment(s)smoulder in the dust bin. If you are concerned about fire danger
you will empty our dust collection system every time you knock off for the
I would be happy to be proven wrong. But you will not prove me wrong with a
strongly opinionated post or with fourth hand anecdotes.
Some people complain about the static buildup. I tell them to do the
same thing with the static from the DC as they do with the static from
their wife, kids, dog, cat, etc, during the winter heating months.
They must do something. Do the same thing.
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
To the OP; Pay no attention to what those other guys are saying.
Insulator Schminsulator. Contrary to what these know-it-all types
tell you, for less than 20 bucks and a couple of hours of your time,
you _can_ ground your PVC duct work.
Box of #10 rubber bands.
SillyPutty<tm>, in assorted colors (The starter 6-pack set works fine, you won't need much.)
1 2-foot long piece of 1/2" PVC.
1 Pair pantyhose.
1.) Tie several dozen rubber bands together. Don't cut them and tie
them together, loop each one through the next so that your final rope
of rubber bands has a loop at each end. Don't fark this up. The
loops are critical.
2.) Attach one end to your PVC ductwork with the SillyPutty<tm>. Now
you see why you need the loop. SillyPutty<tm> isn't worth a damn at
securing a single string, but with a loop in the end the
SillyPutty<tm> will have more grabbinessability to really hold thatrubber to the PVC. I recommend the yellow SillyPutty<tm>, others
swear by the green. You may find the red works best in your
application. Whichever one you find works best for you, be sure to
post pictures on ABPW.
3.) Bang a 2-foot long piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe into the ground,
preferably as close to your compost pile as possible. The nitrogen in
the compost helps attract the stray electrons that are about to be
ionized. (I'll explain the how of this in another post, it's beyond
the scope of this one.)
Attach the other end of your rubber band line to the PVC. Since
SillyPutty<tm> isn't waterproof, you'll need to secure this end, (the"compost" end) to the PVC pipe by running one leg of the pantyhose
through the loop in the rubber band. Run it up to the crotch. Run it
up to the crotch. I liked the way that sounded so I said it twice,
but you only have to do it once. No extra electrical discharge will
occur by running it up to the crotch more than once. Finally, wrap
each leg of the pantyhose around the PVC pipe several times and then
tie the legs together securely, squeezing the rubber band as hard as
possible to the PVC pipe. The more tightly you squeeze the rubber
band to the PVC pipe, the more Ohms your electrons can amp down into
the ground on their way to the compost pile.
Although bare-bones in nature this is, in essence, a perfectly
grounded PVC system! Don't be too concerned if you don't have a
compost pile. The nitrogen ionic voltage transfer won't be as
efficient without one, but your grounding system will still work just
as well as if you did nothing at all. And remember...
You really don't know what you're talking about. There's no such
thing as grounding a non-conductive surface. You can make yourself
believe that you're doing such a thing, but you're not. If it were
true, we wouldn't have such basic electronic components as a
Having just gone through this 8 months ago, I'm pretty well informed.
Oh boy, here we go. First, if someone talks about grounding PVC, they
don't know anything about electricity, as you can't ground a
non-conductive surface. So all "grounding" PVC does is empty your
wallet and clog your pipes.
2nd, you'll hear claims that static discharge is an explosion hazard,
even though nobody can find one single source of STATIC causing an
explosion. You'll hear all sorts of claims, but when you dig deep
into them, you'll find that it wasn't static at all that caused the
fire, but something else.
You'll also hear claims that you NEED to buy that expensive spiral
pipe, because a home dust collector will collapse the cheap snaplock
pipe that the Borg sells. Poppycock. It doesn't even come close to
collapsing. I have the Jet 1100 and it works great with the cheap
stuff you buy for $6 for 6'.
Now, I chose the snaplock metal pipe because it's light, easy to work
with, and I ended up fabricating my own Y's. Don't blow your money on
$30 Y pipes. It's ridiculous for what they get for those. I used 6"
for my my line, and fabricated 6x6x4" Ys for each machine, using a
manual aluminum blast gate.
In addition, using the metal pipe allows you to use those great
adjustable elbows that the borg sells as well. You don't want to
elbow anything to a 90 deg angle, you want to keep all bends to 45
degrees. Tape it all up with aluminum tape, and you'll have a solid
dust collection system.
Almost correct. Two 45's will have the same resistance as a single 90
with the same bend radius. The issue is really long radius vs. short
radius. If you mean "don't make more than a 45 degree bend with one
adjustable elbow" or "use two elbows to make a 90 degree bend" then
A: No. See: Help, I'm
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