PSA: Harbor Freight Digital Caliper $16

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The Starrett Buy American thread reminded me to chime in with a personal experience on: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberG257
I've had mine for two years now - it's great! Used enough to be on Battery #3. While I don't have a machinist's reference point to calibrate it to - I've measured a number of off the shelf items - drill bits, chisels, screws, etc. This unit is within a few thousands of what you'd assume it would report. As for accuracy, it again seems to put up data repeatable to a thou or so...
If all the units are as nice as mine, I think it's a great buy at $16.
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 00:11:37 +0000, patrick conroy wrote:

The repeatability is precision. Accuracy is how close to the real value you get.
"0.900, 0.901, 0.899, 0.902, 0.898" is precision.
"1.00, 0.50, 1.50, 1.25, 0.75" is accuracy.
You want both. "1.000, 1.001, 0.999, 1.002, 0.998"
Anyway, for $16 I want one too. I'm considering a Stanley 136, because I'm looking for "neighborhood", not accuracy and precision.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"


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Tell me, what is wrong with using a regular mechanical vernier caliper? Alex
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On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 20:00:20 -0700, AArDvarK wrote:

I want one of them too. :) Don't trust General, can't afford Starrett. Don't need it anyway. Still want one, though. But, you're right, a mechanical caliper is just fine. (I keep a slide rule in my bench drawer, and use it now and again.)
--
"Keep your ass behind you"


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wrote:

I have a vernier caliper I bought about 20 years ago. it's still plenty accurate and the batteries haven't gone out on it yet....
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Vernier's don't take batteries. They are not digital. Alex
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AArDvarK wrote:

So what size cord should they have?
Would converting it to 220 give it more horsepower?
I found one that's three phase. Do I need a rotary convertor or would static be OK?
UA100
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Is it right tilt or left tilt? What kind does Nahm use?? ;-)                     Mark L.
Unisaw A100 wrote:

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Take a click: http://www.rit.edu/%7Euphysics/VernierCaliper/caliper.html
Alex
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AArDvarK wrote:

Absolutely useless. Not a thing said about how to properly ground a caliper.
UA100
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heh-heh-heh-heh.........
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You don't need to ground a caliper, that's just a myth. Nobody has ever presented a single example of a shop explosion caused by an ungrounded caliper.
:-)
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I gotta wade in here. You DO have to ground a caliper - and here's a case in point.
My brother had to wear a caliper as a boy, it's a device that is two metal rods hinged, at the knee, that supports the leg. He had to wear it for extended periods following operations. The metal bits were kept off the leg by leather but, at the top, they were exposed. The top terminated near the upper thigh, and, on a good day with the right conditions, you could scuff yourself over the carpet and touch the bottom of the caliper, resulting in a discharge near the top (where his boyz were).
It were guar-ant-eed to get his attention.
So, in answer to your statement, no shop explosions, but it did make my brudder explode regularly.
--
Greg


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You'd be surprised how many people find it hard to read a vernier or dial caliper! They just don't know how to read it, in most cases. As a machinist/moldmaker, my most used tool is a 12" dial calipers.
I have a cheapie 6" at home I use for everything...machining, planing, etc.
John
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wrote:

I prefer the dial ones too, especially the ones that have English fractions on the dial.
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Much easier to read without my reader glasses.
AArDvarK wrote:

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ranted:

What's that, Stubby? (What fool works in the shop without their glasses on?)

------------------------------------------------------------- give me The Luxuries Of Life * http://www.diversify.com i can live without the necessities * 2 Tee collections online -------------------------------------------------------------
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 00:11:37 GMT, "patrick conroy"

I've been thinking about attaching one to my planer for quite some time, but haven't pried open the wallet to buy one to drill holes in. This may be the ticket if I can concoct an attachment method that doesn't look totally jury-rigged.
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<snip>

solution flexibility for use, having inserted a bed extension. The kind one uses for thinner stock, and to reduce snipe.
Preferably something that doesn't require me to do addition including measurements in 32nds of an inch.
If you get the time. And are interested. And don't mind sharing. For free.
I don't want much, do I? ;-)
Patriarch
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 05:23:03 GMT, patriarch

Doh! Hadn't considered that possibility. Maybe making the sled a precise even thickness (1" sounds good) might work.
Haven't had any problems with snipe on my planer, but use of a sled for thinner stock is something to consider.

If you have the patience to wait for when I get a round tuit for that task, I'll be more than happy to share.

nah, not much. :-)

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