We just purchased our home and the deck off the house was not
completed. Everything was done except the handrails. We have all the
handrails completed around the deck except for the stairs.
I was wondering if their is a standard angle for the stair railing?
Is their a formula that should be used to calculate this?
The angle you need can be computed by knowing what is the rise of the
stairs and what is the run. Most stairs have something on the order of
a 9" tread (run) and a 7 1/2" rise. Using a carpenters framing square
makes the job easy to figure out. Put a straight-edge on the markings
on the square you measured for rise and run to create a triangle. You
can then either use a protractor to measure the angle or simply compute
it mathematically using plane geometry.
Now that I have said all that, when you cut the bannisters you cannot
assume that your posts are plumb. Even if they are, I recommend you use
a bevel square and measure directly from the posts to find your cutting
angle. Clamp a level to each post and set it to true level. Then take
your measurements with the bevel and transfer this angle to your saw for
making your cuts. Make your first cut and place the rail against the
outside of the post and eyeball your angle. If it looks good you can
make the second cut with the angle you measured from the next post. I
suggest you make this cut approximately 1/2" long. That should give you
enough material to finesse a third and final cut so the rail is snug.
And you will have to do this all over again with your bottom rail. Just
remember to ensure to maintain identical drops under each juncture with
your rails and posts. BTW - don't be surprised if the posts do not have
faces that are truly parallel to each other. In fact, it is likely they
won't be. This means you have a compound angle to fit. A belt sander
makes this job easier, but it can be done by hand. Best of luck ...
Amy L. wrote:
Lay a straightedge on several of the tread nosings, measure the angle from
this straightedge to the newel post. Handrails on stairs should be held 28"
to 32" above the straightedge. (Guardrails on the deck surface should be a
minimum of 36" from the deck surface).
Typically, legal stairs have an angle of 36-42 degrees (not science, just
measured a few:)
Why? The support posts are vertical and each the same height, and
those the same height as the ones holding the horizontal deck railing.
Since there is at least one post at the top and at the bottom, the
rail must wind up parallel [same angle] to the stairs.
Read the reply. It's better to give stronger advice than to answer a
questionable question. She can find the angle by trig as well, but I
wouldn't advise that either. The point is that there is no need to
measure the angle, and it does little good. A better way is simply a
better way. Any angle [stair to post] can be copied using an
adjustable bevel if necessary.
On Sunday, August 15, 2004 1:58:21 PM UTC-4, Bill Rogers wrote:
wrote:>> Why? The support posts are vertical and each the same height, and
l must wind up parallel [same angle] to the stairs.> >Read the thread title
. The OP did not ask whether she needed to know the >angle, she asked how t
o find out what it was.Read the reply. It's better to give stronger advice
than to answer a questionable question. She can find the angle by trig as w
ell, but I wouldn't advise that either. The point is that there is no need
to measure the angle, and it does little good. A better way is simply a bet
ter way. Any angle [stair to post] can be copied using an adjustable bevel
Agreed. Make it the same height at the top and the bottom. It will naturall
y align. The angle is unnecessary to know.
first, lay a 2x4 or something flat across the nosing on one side of the
stairs.Then take a framing square and lay it on the 2x4 with the 24" end
pointing up. Slide the square up until you can make a mark of the angle on
the post at the top of the stairs (the top of the 24"end). you now have you
angle. It should be around 36-38 degrees. (verify with a speed square) Then
subtract 1 1/2" inch from the mark on the post for the 2x4 used and that
mark should also be around the right railing height.
I always use a framing square with the tongue against the tread corner.
Where the end of the body lands is where I cut the post. The 2by hand
rail goes on top of that.
Amy L. wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jun 2014 12:20:11 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It is necessary to know if the OP is building a railing off-site -
like a wrought iron railing that is welded together at the right angle
and installed in one piece.
Easy enough to canculate anyway if you know the run and the rize.
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