Priming and Painting T1-11

The east exterior side of my garage is sided with T1-11 and after, at least , 11 yrs, some of the paint is cracking and flaking. My original primer wa s oiled based and painted with Sears Weather Beater paint. Sears, here, n o longer has a painting department, so Weather Beater, etc. is no longer av ailable.
Spoke to Benjamin Moore specialist and he *recommended a water based primer , rather than oil based. Says WB is more flexible, hence there should be less cracking and flaking. I wasn't aware WB was more flexible, that way.
*Then followed by a latex paint.
Info other T1-11 users, here, may find a consideration and/or beneficial.
Time for some fall maintenance, around here. All the facia needs repaintin g. The woodshop will have some ext. work done, also.
Sonny
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On 9/15/2016 8:05 AM, Sonny wrote:

I have always heard and use oil based products on trim inside the house. Water based for out doors and interior walls.
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On 9/15/2016 9:05 AM, Sonny wrote:

I agree that latex is more flexible. Take a piece of peeled off latex, and it will stretch in your hands if it is warm enough not in the cold, and I mean ever so slightly. Oil will just break.
That being said, my shed with T1, has rotted in 15 years. I think it was that the bottom was not sealed and when the water hit the ground it bounced up and soaked the ply from the unsealed ends.
Still haven' addressed a repair and trying to avoid redoing the entire shed.
--
Jeff

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On Thursday, September 15, 2016 at 2:55:04 PM UTC-5, woodchucker wrote:


My garage and shop has T1-11. I had anticipated splash up, that way, so I made a skirt. The bevel cut of the ends and drip edge is about 30 degrees . the very bottom is cut at 30 degrees, also. The bottom cut edge and up the backside was primed and painted (1 coat) before installing. I don't have a whole sheet to deal with, if a bottom portion gets damaged. There's also a 10"-12"(?) metal flashing behind the skirt. Felt or Tyvek behind the flashing.
A few spots I've had to touch up, including trim, because of weed eater dam age.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4733385477/in/photostream
If you decide to trim the damaged portion, attach a board below the cut lin e, for your circular saw to rest/ride on, while cutting. I did a similar cut and it was difficult to hold the saw for the duration of the cut.... es pecially for an angled cut.
And wear eye protection!!! Awkward position and sawdust flying, the debris will definitely fly in your face.
Sonny
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On 9/15/2016 9:05 AM, Sonny wrote:

My garage has been latex since it was built in 1978. I've repainted it twice since the original.
You also make the gubbermint happy as it has less VOCs.
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wrote:

The BM dealer where I bought my paint recommended oil primer because it penetrated the wood better. Of course he also recommended latex paint for it's UV characteristics.
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On Thursday, September 15, 2016 at 9:03:25 PM UTC-5, krw wrote:

This was my thinking. I cut the first coat, for better penetration. My B M advisor said the fast drying primer was the culprit. Maybe a slow dryin g primer would be better, but I'll go the water based route from now on.
My procedure was 2 coats primer (thinned/non-thinned) before installing. O nce installed, caulk & prime caulk and fasteners, before painting. Priming the sheets on saw horses made for easy edge/ends and backside edges coatin g. Primer and paint was rolled on with a 3/4" nap roller, then brushing sm ooth.
I may spray some areas this time around.... have sprayed, I hired a crew to do the work.

Yep.
Sonny
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