Price for rough cherry?

What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide.
I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
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On 10/11/2012 1:29 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.

Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled on your TS, clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the cherry.
Or as i do, rip straight with a track saw.
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On Thursday, October 11, 2012 1:03:29 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

No prob doing the edge. The difficulty is making the first face flat on the jointer.
I learned proper method for squaring up rough lumber is first joint one face to make flat, joint one edge by putting flattened face against fence so you have face and egde at 90, plane other face in planer so now 3 sides correct, rip to width for 4th edge.
Easier done with a 2 or 3 foot piece than an 8 footer for that first face.
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The mill I go to finishes both sides for $1.90 bd ft. So, finished price minus $1.90 bdft.= rough cut, here.
Get a price, in your area, for planing both sides and subtract that from the going rate for finished lumber.
Sonny
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On 10/11/2012 3:47 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide. > > I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood. > > It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough. > Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled on your TS, clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the cherry. Or as i do, rip straight with a track saw.

O(K, sorry, I must have misunderstood.

to make flat, joint one edge by putting flattened face against fence so you have face and egde at 90, plane other face in planer so now 3 sides correct, rip to width for 4th edge.
Yeah me too. ;~) And I learned to never, never ever use the jointer to clean up a final cut. When I was a Kid I never quite understood the logic. Many years ago I finally realized that it is extremely difficult to produce a board of "exact" width if you use a jointer to produce both finished edges.

Absolutely
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In SE Kansas I have a source selling it for $1.75/BF. He is usually limited and it is not of the stellar grain quality I have seen at other places. At other western MO dealers I see it in the $4 range and, again, not in large quantity.
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Here in San Diego it goes for $8.50 rough at the most expensive source.
Hope this helps. Steve
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On Thursday, October 11, 2012 11:29:23 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Thanks all. This adds some sanity. The local Rockler had some OK looking 4/4 in 5 to 8" widths by 8 feet. They had the boards marked with bf and total price. It seemed expensive so I asked what was the price per bf. They were asking $12 per bf!!!
The $7-$8 range is more in line with what I was seeing a few years back when I was buying more wood than I do nowdays.
I spoke with my local Woodcraft guy and he is going to let me put some in his rack on consignment and we'll work out some equitable price and deal. I am thinking maybe $5 per bf and and seeing if he'll give me $3. I will be more than doubling my original cost so maybe not such a bad deal.
I think I will also put a recently finished little stickley nightstand next to the lumber as an example of what finished material looks like. Or maybe just a few short finished pieces.
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On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:29:23 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"

sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
I don't know this for certain, but I think s2s wood is normally planed, not jointed, on both faces. I don't think I would bother jointing wood until just before I was going to use it in a project.
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On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 10:27:17 AM UTC-7, Jim Weisgram wrote:
hoo.com> wrote: >What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide. > >I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood. > >It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough. I don't know this for certain, but I think s2s wood is normally planed, not jointed, on both faces. I don't think I would bother jointing wood until just before I was going to use it in a project.
Yes, I am of the same impression but I also believe they do what they call skip planing with a two sided planer and the feed rollers are farther away and you don't have as much effect of pushing the board flat to a table.
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