Presealer for cherry?

[Dave]

Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer for the cherry? Thanks.

[Robatoy]

Don't need it.

[Dave]

Hmmm. The text I'm reading suggests that cherry has a tendency to blotch and a presealer can help to reduce or eliminate that tendency. Guess I have some more reading to do.

[Robatoy]

Blotch? You mean when st..sta..stai...*shudder* STAINING?

[-MIKE-]

If you're staining, save yourself a lot of money and just use any clear hardwood, like beech, birch or maple.

[Lee Michaels]

Come on Robatoy. He may not be actually staining it. Give him a little credit. He may be PAINTING it. That would cover up that ugly cherry color.

[Dave]

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:32:22 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy

Actually, I was under the impression that even a clear finish could soak into some areas a little more than others and leave a darker haze. As you can see, while I consider my woodworking skills to be adequate, my dislike and lack of knowledge when it comes to finishing, occasionally leaves the final result something to be desired.

Besides, like Mike said, I may want to paint my cherry and I want a smooth paint coat without any streaking.

[Sonny]

I've always understood to apply BLO or tung oil, to enhance the grain, then topcoat with clear finish. Thin the BLO or tung oil with paint thinner or naptha, to help with penetration. The oil will prevent blotching... or certainly reduce it significantly.

Sonny

[RonB]

Looks like you are getting a lot of help. ;o}

What I am guessing is you want to end up with an unstained and very smooth finish. In that case an intermediate layer of a sanding sealer, available in most hardware or home stores, might be in order. Actually a good, thorough sanding followed with finish, also sanded or rubbed might work as well. Oils will also provide a good deal of seal. Boiled Linseed oil really pops grain but is not durable. You will have to top with another finish.

RonB

[Swingman]

A web site is worth a thousand words. DJM is known for his natural finishes on woods like cherry and he uses both a sealer and top coat:

have also gotten beautiful finishes with cherry by using a Sam Maloof finish, which is an oil/poly base, followed by coats of oil/poly/wax base:

hope chest, done with Sam Maloof finish, is even more beautiful today, with that rich, natural cherry color that only comes for exposure to sunlight.

The Sam Maloof product can be had from Rockler or WoodCraft ... it is my first choice for cherry, although either method works a treat.

[Swingman]

Meant to add that, with the Maloof finish, a sealer is not necessary at all, and probably best to not use one with that particular method.

Both methods take the same application technique and take about the same time.

With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repeat final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.

[RonB]

The Maloof finish is very nice. I might add that there are locally available, but less effective alternatives. There are a variety of wiping varnishes available from a lot of home and hardware stores. They are very easy to apply and with some light rubbing, provide a nice finish.

While many here do not support Min Wax products, I have had good luck with their wipe-on-poly. I have used it on a lot of hardwood rocking horse projects and usually top with a coat of wax. The horses take some use and abuse but a light coat of wax, ever year or two, brings the appearance back.

RonB

[Dave]

[Larry Jaques]

That old saw is for BLO alone, not that farkin' poly chit. When're you going to try a _real_ finish, Swingy?

in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[Swingman]

at the cherry hope chest today would not venture to add that Waterlox would have done a better job, trust me on that. :)

As for the "old saw" meant for BLO only, it works for the oil/poly/wax coat as well, guaranteed.

[Larry Jaques]

Do you de-wax first, each time? Or is there a solvent in the mix?

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[Robatoy]

That'd be guwahrahnteed. n'est pas?

[Swingman]

Sorry, I misspoke (but I'm not going to resign my seat in deficit financing practice) ... the final, and any subsequent, coats are an oil/wax, and forego the poly.

And I knew that ... go figure.

[Pat Barber]

Unless you have some really nice heart wood, most cherry requires some "extra" work to make it look uniform.

To have that spiffy cherry finish everybody raves about, start with poplar and work your way up....

After 10-15 rounds, you should have that famous cherry finish.

[Larry Jaques]

The penalty is one Festool sent to me. Got my address? I believe the bestest starter tool would be a 55 or 75, OK?

-- Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai