What kind of table saw. I used them on my old Jet CS saw. But not on my
Delta Unisaw? The consensus seems to be not on Cabinet saws with multiple
belts. Although I have some on a Grizzly 8" jointer with two belts. And
have no problems. The did reduce a lot of vibration but the stock belts
I think I have read of machined steel pulleys and fenner belts offered
for the unisaw aftermarket items, this link:
refers to the fenner belts as "a recommended accessory from the
experts at popular woodworking to reduce vibration" and the link:
replacing the "inexpensive cast pulleys on the unisaw with machined
steel pulleys" to improve operation.
I also use a (Dewalt) blade stabilizer whenever I can since I use a
lot of 10" blades that are thin kerf, 80-120 teeth, carbide tipped and
it seems to help make even smoother cuts than without one.
The link belts are just one of many technical improvements for
equipment, but if it will reduce the transmitted vibration from a
single belt machine one would think that it help reduce the vibration
transmitted even more in a multi belt configuration. Fenner has been
supplying this technology to the commercial/industrial large scale
market for much longer than they have marketed into the smaller
equipment market as evidenced by the examples of many multi belt
solutions shown on their web site, however I am no engineer, I just
know what has worked for me in regard to this technology....Joe.
On Fri, 24 Feb 2006 23:13:43 -0600, "Darrell Dorsey"
In just about every "table saw tune up" write up one of the first
things suggested is changing to link belts, and if you have a unisaw
to replace the cast pulleys with steel lathe turned ones at the same
time. I suspect that there may be other brand saws with less than
optimal cast pulleys as well.
I use the fenner belts on just about all the belt drive tools I have,
not only for the benefit of the quieter smoother operation but also
because it allows mew to standardize the belting systems and use the
bulk packed 25' rolls. Since you can determine the length of the belt
via the number of loops even if I run out of spare loop belting I can
always "steal" a belt or two from another machine in a pinch and make
it work. This may be unnecessary since the loop belts are supposed to
last much longer too. I have not had any fail, or even show
noticeable wear in three years thus far. They can transform a drill
press into a different machine that is quiet, true running and
vibration free. I built a "portable" air compressor with a 18 cfm
pump and a five hp induction motor mounted the motor and the pump in
1/4" rubber mat and used power twist belt, when I first started it up
it was so quiet that I thought the air intake was plugged or it was
running backwards or something, nope, it was running correctly and
didn't even have the air intake muffler/filters on yet either. Some
high end wood lathe manufacturers use the fenner belts as stock items
on their products for the same reasons.
I know this would likely draw scorn from fenner, but I once took a 'B'
size power twist belt and using my disc sander and a little jig I
made, "ground" the belt into a 'A' size belt because I wanted to use
the machine immediately and not have to wait for a mail order package
or go to town and buy a few feet of the 'A' size. Seems to be running
fine thus far (the air compressor mentioned above, built a little
over a year ago.). That is the only machine I have with 'A' size belt
so I won't be tempted to do that again hopefully. I like to think
that I am a reasonably safety conscience person, in that situation I
slipped a bit however.
I purchased a box of 25' 'B' size power twist off of ebay and I am
just now down to the last 4-5' in the box, the bulk pricing was less
costly, the 25' cost me about 35-40$ as I recall, whereas from most
places a 5' chunk is usually in the 18-25$ range, for me it was far
better than having a bunch of individual length v-belts that I could
never find the right one when I needed it usually anyway. (I had put
it where I wouldn't forget where it was, in case I needed it...Yeah,
Right!.) I don't have any affiliation with fenner, other than being a
happy customer, impressed with the technology. regards, Joe.
??? Fully machined (all surfaces) and balanced cast iron pulleys vs.
fully machined and balanced steel pulleys, what is the benefit of
that? Delta considers them interchangeable and equal.
If you take a contractor saw with a properly specified belt vs. a link
belt measuring vibration the stock belt will produce less. That is a
belt that had not taken a set from sitting around, not being used
particularly in the cold. But most people let their saws sit for long
periods of time and the belt takes a set that causes an initial
vibration. It diminishes as the saw runs.
What style of saw?
If it's a contractor's saw, the belt will probably improve
performance. Don't forget to align the pulleys the best that you can
while you're there.
Other hop-ups for contractor's saws (not applicable or necessary on
- Tube sand on the legs
- 220v rewire
- cast iron wings
- outfeed support
- machined pulleys
- PALS alignment kit (align miter slot to blade)
They sometimes help. I became enamored of the link belts when they solved
a problem I had on a lathe many years ago, and started putting them on
everything. But then I found that sometimes the regular belts or cogged
ones worked better in certain applications. Now, I go with whichever
belt works best on the particular machine, or whichever is less
expensive, all else equivalent.
Here's an article I wrote about it.
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