Is it possible to get this saw as accurate as a real table saw? I have
some furnature projects and this is the only saw I have and cant afford
another one right now. I odnt have a jointer either.
Short answer: No.
Long answer: That depends.
For my first project, I tolerated a delta bench top table saw. For my
second project, I built a large table that surrounded the saw so I
could safely cut plywood. Then I threw out my fence and cooked
something up that was more sturdy and accurate.
For the third project, I bought a real table saw.
Norm has an episode of NYW that talks about these saws and shows how to
make an extra fence from some mdf and a pipe clamp. It's probably
better than not having a table saw, but that should be the first tool
I have a *real* Jet contractors saw that some would say is junk
compared to a Unisaw. but I spent time adjusting/tuning it and it cut
OK. I noticed a huge improvement when I bought a decent blade. As
long as the arbor is not bent you should be able to get that saw to do
quite a bit with a good quality blade. And if you ever *upgrade* to a
real saw you can take the blade with you.
Is it within the realm of remote possibilities? Sure, you could do it
if you wanted to take a long time setting up cuts, measuring a million
times, etc. Are you going to enjoy doing it? No. Are you going to
end up with a lot of bad cuts that you have to do over again?
Absolutely. Are you going to wish you had a decent saw to begin with?
If that's all you have, you're going to have to make due, but it's not
going to be as fast or as much fun as having a decent saw in the long
I think what happens a lot is we start out with one of these saws and
pre-surfaced lumber from the home center. The lumber used to have a
nice jointed edge on it, but by the time it's gotten to you it isn't
anymore. And so we blame the problem on the saw. If the edge that is
following the fence is not straight the cut is not going to be good,
Now that said, you may have to resort to things like double checking
that the fence has locked down square every single time you move it.
You may have to put a clamp on the back end to keep it from deflecting
during the cut. You may have to attach an auxillary fence to it
because it wasn't straight to begin with. You may not be able to do
all the things that other people do on their bigger saws, but you can
do rip cuts, and cross cuts as long as the board isn't very wide.
Are you talking about ripping or crosscutting?
Crosscutting is all but impossible.
You can rip as accurately as on any tablesaw; the problem is that the fence
won't be parallel to the blade unless you spend 20 minutes setting it up.
You can get a perfectly good used contractors saw for $200. Unless you have
nothing better to do, it pays for itself real quick.
Then build a sled and crosscutting becomes accurate also.
You can live without a jointer, but not a decent saw.
You're absolutely right.
I have a friend who bought a really crappy benchtop saw a while back,
the thing isn't remotely accurate at all. The arbor has awful runout,
the fence not only does not lock parallel to the blade, it *CAN'T*.
As soon as you flip down the lever, the back of the fence shifts 1/16"
of an into towards the blade. The miter slots are non-standard, you
can't just go out and buy a new miter gauge and the one that came with
it slips. I ended up building him a good crosscut sled that would
work with his slots so he can at least do some semi-accurate
crosscuts, but he still can't rip on it worth anything.
He's saving for a new saw and this one is going straight into the
Look at it another way..........
Use your skills (or develop them) and it should be fine. It was not so
long ago that carpenters and furniture makers completed their work
with but a few hand tools. Imagine how much easier their work would
have been to have your table saw.
The voice of reason. Well put, Joe. Would I rather have a bench top saw
rather than the contractor's that I have now? No. Would I feel disabled if I
had to use a benchtop saw? Again, no. I have used a few of them with good
results. Hell, my grandfather used a piece of plywood with a motor hanging
under it spinning a steel saw blade. I've got some of his stuff in my house
to this day.
I have never used a real saw but I do use a Delta 10" benchtop. It
does an adaquate job for me. I have built some fairly major projects
with it that fit fine. To see some of the projects I have used it for
I can never remember having to recut a peice ruined by the saw.
It does not produce edges good enough for glue up, but a straight edge
and router cleans it up fine. A sled makes crosscuts easy and
A poor craftsman often blames his tools.
I tried using the router table as a jointer without much success.
I have an aluminum extrusion that comes as 2 4 foot lengths
that can be joined that has clamps that slide along the bottom.
These are readily available in places like Lowes or Home Depot.
I paid $15 for a set years ago. A long level will also work.
Most of the times the boards are less than 4 feet so just one
section is used.
I clamp this to the board such that the router will shave about
1/32" of wood off the board. Make two passes to make sure
you don't miss a spot. If there are still low spots reposition
the strait edge and repeat. I use a 1/2" router bit. The saw
can get the edge within a 32nd so one pass usually is sufficient
This may seem dumb, but how do you determine where to put the straight
edge so you take off the right amoutn and get it straight? (I have not
used a router only in my table.
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