I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving it.
Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.
Runs pretty smooth (rattles a bit like all non-gear head drill- presses). Nice belt change setup and tensioner. Includes a light on a flex arm which is real nice to have and the red laser still shows up fine.
Did I say I love the X laser?
I only posses one too with a laser cutting line. My slide mitre saw. I wouldn't be without it, after first use. The drill press sounds like an awesome thing to have laser, also, but I am not sure about many other tools benefit from it much. Laser on my hammer would be real nice.
How do they align the laser markings at any height of drill surface. It would seem to have to shine down the shaft of the drill bit and that doesn't sound possible?? Smoke and mirrors? Moving mechanism?
I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving it.
Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.
Runs pretty smooth (rattles a bit like all non-gear head drill- presses). Nice belt change setup and tensioner. Includes a light on a flex arm which is real nice to have and the red laser still shows up fine.
Did I say I love the X laser?
Haven't really even looked at the optics but somehow they cast two lines as an x that stays crossed in the same location regarless of table height (so far) and stay visible right up until the drill tip contacts.
My miter laser died and I never looked into fixing it. I only use for rough cuts, construction type stuff withthe exception of crown molding. Then I use a fixture. All precise cross cuts get done on the TS.
A laser on my Glock would be good. The 12 guage seems to work well without one. ;^)
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.
OK Thanx for that! Duh!!
It just kicked in how easy the cross hairs would be with two projecting line lasers at 90 degrees to each other on the bit point.
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On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leon
Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always had to use?
Of course (no pun) for some production or repeated setup I adjust the fence, stop blocks or make a fixture. But even setting up those items the laser helps me get them dead on. Also lots of my daily use is one hole here and there and using a brad point bit and some pencil marks I can nail the center like never before. Maybe it's just me but I always had trouble getting the dill point to line up to marks and often had to contact the wood before I could tell if I was lined up but with the laser I find it much easier.
I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get a repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse. Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32" wide markings.
I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is way up. Additionally I find it way to easy to knock the lasers out of alignment. AND My marks tend to be relative narrow compared to the width of the laser, and the laser hides the mark so I don't know if my mark is centered under the laser line or off to one edge of the laser line.
Just aim for the`middle of the lines. This would be no different than using a steel rule in Machine Shop training for 0.001" accuracy.
Now old eyes may change a few things.
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I was using a 1 1/3" forstner and don't recall having a problem. Also I was able to see my pencil marks under the laser on black phenolic.
I haven't knocked them out of adjustment...yet. Haven't ever calibrated them that I recall (maybe I did when I set it up). But don't even recall exactly where it/they are installed. I just quickly got used to them and found them very effective... for me.
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:24:41 -0600, Leon
I'm guessing that you're aware you can compenesate for those large shadowding bits by just starting the hole with the tip and then retracting the bit to see if the cross hairs line up with it. But, it does take a little more time and effort.
That all depends on how thick and how sharply the laser lines are definded.
Sounds like my last date.
On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 13:51:52 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
Yeah, I've had a few difficult dates too. The worst one that comes to mind was the nurse who warned me against coming onto her even before I opened the car door for her to get in. In retrospect, I should have ended the date right there and then.
At first I read "... into her" but then saw it was "onto her". Actually, for me either is OK as long as I get to.
Well that makes a confirmation the two top posting morons are the same person.
Correct but I have yet to see a line thinner than 1/32"
Yes! but I have broad lines on mine and there is no instruction on making the line of the laser narrower. Basically I can move the mark and it is still under the crossing laser lines.
If I need to make repeated holes I simply draw a square line to the edge of the piece that will touch the fence. I drop the bit to touch the line and attach a piece of tape and mark a line on it at the line on the board. Next board aligns to that mark on the fence.
He said CROSS hairs.
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