Well, since the lines extend 18" from the bit, it certainly would be safe.
I suppose one could sneak up on a large Forstner from 3:00, 6:00, or 9:00 and
get "bit". OTOH, most DP "oopses" I've seen are hold-down problems (not the
bit that bites, but the work piece).
Of course (no pun) for some production or repeated setup I adjust the
fence, stop blocks or make a fixture. But even setting up those items
the laser helps me get them dead on. Also lots of my daily use is one
hole here and there and using a brad point bit and some pencil marks I
can nail the center like never before. Maybe it's just me but I always
had trouble getting the dill point to line up to marks and often had
to contact the wood before I could tell if I was lined up but with the
laser I find it much easier.
I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up. Additionally I find it way to easy to knock the lasers out of
alignment. AND My marks tend to be relative narrow compared to the
width of the laser, and the laser hides the mark so I don't know if my
mark is centered under the laser line or off to one edge of the laser line.
I was using a 1 1/3" forstner and don't recall having a problem. Also
I was able to see my pencil marks under the laser on black phenolic.
I haven't knocked them out of adjustment...yet. Haven't ever
calibrated them that I recall (maybe I did when I set it up). But
don't even recall exactly where it/they are installed. I just quickly
got used to them and found them very effective... for me.
I'm guessing that you're aware you can compenesate for those large
shadowding bits by just starting the hole with the tip and then
retracting the bit to see if the cross hairs line up with it. But, it
does take a little more time and effort.
On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 13:51:52 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
Yeah, I've had a few difficult dates too. The worst one that comes to
mind was the nurse who warned me against coming onto her even before I
opened the car door for her to get in. In retrospect, I should have
ended the date right there and then.
Yes! but I have broad lines on mine and there is no instruction on
making the line of the laser narrower. Basically I can move the mark
and it is still under the crossing laser lines.
If I need to make repeated holes I simply draw a square line to the edge
of the piece that will touch the fence. I drop the bit to touch the line
and attach a piece of tape and mark a line on it at the line on the
board. Next board aligns to that mark on the fence.
Lasers on my PC chop saw died when the cheap 5 cent
flashlight switch died. They worked okay for aligning the
head to a layout line, but weren't essential. If I'm shooting
for hairline precision on a machine -- say, for drilling in hinges --
nothing makes the job easier than a 60 watt lamp placed
within 6" of the mark and a cheap pair of dollar store
3x reading glasses.
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