What is the best way to remove polyurethane glue that has foamed over
on a project I am making. I may have used too much glue. Especially
where two corners meet. (A drawer compartment). Not sure I can get it
all with sandpaper.
stryped (in firstname.lastname@example.org)
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| What is the best way to remove polyurethane glue that has foamed
| over on a project I am making. I may have used too much glue.
| Especially where two corners meet. (A drawer compartment). Not sure
| I can get it all with sandpaper.
I use acetone and paper towel. Comes off quickly and cleanly. After
it's set, a scraper will do a good first-pass cleanup.
Practice using "just enough" PU glue - and consider switching to a
glue that doesn't expand all over your work (I'm partial to Titebond,
but there are other good similar glues.)
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Other have told you how (chisel and chemical methods) but I'll just add a
I think one of the most overlooked tools in the shop and one of the handiest
is the simple, single-edge razor blade. I use it for scrapping, removing
glue, as a scribe and as a small chisel. I keep a small block of wood with
some 600 grit wet/dry paper attached to it and use that to freshen the edge
once in awhile.
Don't let its small size fool you. I have scrapped curved furniture legs
with wild grain with a razor blade that would have been difficult with a
You can get a box of a hundred blades for just a few bucks (try your dollar
store) and put any kind of edge on them you want for cutting, and scrapping
in just a few seconds time.
Give it a try.
I did that to a small table a couple years ago; last time I used
polyurethane glue in woodworking. I tried to remove it with a chisel and
presumably my chisel wasn't sharp enough, because it was doing more harm
I was going to toss it and make a new one, but put it in place temporarily.
Everyone was telling me how nice it was... In use you can't see the excess
glue, so it doesn't much matter.
Others have addressed the solution to your immediate problem, and I
agree with them. I would like to make one comment on the use of poly
glue over the PVA type glues if you plan to use a stain on the wood.
Any residual PVA glue squeezout will not absorb stain very well, which
forces you to resort to drastic measures to remove all traces of the
glue from the surface. Sometimes, this is not practical or even
possible. The nice thing about poly is that the foam can be scraped
off, leaving only a tiny amount left within the wood pores. In my
experience, this won't be markedly different from the surrounding wood
in terms of stain absorbtion (pigment stain, anyway. I've not tried
this with dyes).
Of course, as others have said, using the correct amount of glue in the
first place is the best solution.
Here's a small exercise for you to do so you will know what the correct
amount of yellow glue is. Take some scrap like pine (1x3x12 long) and true
the edges for gluing together. Use a squeeze bottle like the kind that
mustard comes in so you can lay down a thin bead of glue the length of one
of the boards. Place the other board edge-to-edge and slide the pieces back
and forth (length-wise) to spread the glue. No take two clamps and clamp
the two boards together.
Without breaking your wrist just snug up both clamps - evenly. You do not
want to overtighten the clamps and starve the joint of glue. What you do
want to see is a fine, even bead of glue squeeze out which stands proud of
the joint - and stays that way. When it's almost dry (rubbery) you can take
a chisel and scrape it off. Since there was not enough glue to flow onto the
wood and sink into the grain - you will have a joint that will take stain,
not be starved for glue and after you've done this a few times, you will
have a better feel for how much glue is just right.
For poly glue it's slightly different since one part has to be moistened
with water. Most poly glue bottles have a small tip to use to get the glue
to the wood but... poly should be spread all along the dry edge. I use a
small stick and try to spread it evenly as possible but don't fret over it
either. Again, slide the pieces together slightly and then clamp as before.
You should have enough poly on the edge so that when the pieces are clamped
together, you get next to nothing for squeeze-out - maybe a trace. As the
poly cures, it will foam out creating a bit of a ridge the length of the
glue joint. Scrape it off after the poly has fully cured (24hrs) and not
before or you will make a mess. The cure time will be in the directions but
I usually wait a full 24 hrs just to be sure.
So that you have confidence in the fact that you are using enough glue, try
to break the joints after they have cured/dried. Put the scrap in your vise
with the glue joint horizontal to the jaw and just above and whack it with a
hammer. The wood should not split along the joint if it's properly glued
Thank you. I"ve done a bit of gluing and never understood the real
concept. My approach had been to overdo the glue a bit, backing off
with each application. That way I knew I had enough but as most of you
could figure out, I had too much.
That method sounds incredibly simple and almost foolproof once the
"feel" for the bead is acheived.
This is not really a sig.
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