Poly over tung oil won't dry - Help!

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Hoy hoy,
I'm making a jig out of pine. I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look. Two days later I glued, screwed and polyed it. Today the parts that have oil are still poly-wet. What can I use to 1) get the poly off & 2) get the oil out so I can poly the $#!+ out of it for durability?
mini-gloat - I got a good, not too used PC 7 1/4" right-side blade (I like right-side better) circ saw delivered to my house today for $25. What's a good, not too pricy all-around blade for it?
Thanks,
Mowgli
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it might be faster to make a new jig and burn that one!
dave
Mowgli wrote:

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Depending on the ratio, it can take a while to dry. I mixed some poly/tung/mineral sprits to try a wiping finish. Took about 3 days to set up. Try wiping it with mineral spirits? Ed
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On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:44:12 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

Thanks Ed, I'll try that.
Mowgli
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If you have to resort to scrape and wipe, it's time to consider that it may be the wood itself.
Poorly resin-set pine can ooze almost forever, and no finish save shellac has a chance, because the ooze is what they distill to make turpentine. I use shellac to seal my jigs, but I make them of ply or composition material, because that gives me an automatic leg up on stability.
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Why are you applying a finish to a jig?
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Rumpty

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On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 23:17:09 GMT, Rumpty's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

Thanks for the helpful information. That'll get that dang tung oil out.
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Rumpty wrote:

Uuhhhmmmm....minimize moisture transfer...to minimize wood movement... to minimize inaccuracies in the jig introduced by wood movement...to make the jig useful after the season changes.
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Make your jigs outta um let's say birch ply, you have no movement.
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Rumpty

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Rumpty wrote:

Unfortunately, my experience says otherwise.
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You might consider buying a better quality ply.
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Rumpty

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Ed
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Every wood moves regardless of finish, no? Build your jigs outta quality birch ply and any movement you won't notice. If the movement you see outta a ply jig gives you concern, your product design needs to be refined.
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Correct. If it is finished it is less likely to move from moisture though, but not impossible either.
I put a finish on all of my jigs and templates just to keep them cleaner looking. If nothing else, my heirs will be able to get the full $26,000 that shops go for on eBay. Ed
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On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:36:23 GMT, Chris Merrill

How much does your baltic birch ply move, Chris?
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Enough for a 24x18 crosscut sled to wobble on the surface of my TS -- I'd guess 1/16"...maybe 1/8". It was flat when I built it.
(sorry for the late reply...been away)
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Larry Jaques wrote:

As a follow-up...apparently I'm not the only one to have plywood jigs move over time:
(see the section titled "Why MDF?") http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/assets/html/panel_sled.asp?&refcode IN10RL&URLCheck=1
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On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:15:00 GMT, Chris Merrill

I waxed mine and figure it's good for as long as I am. But what's a couple thou of movement when you set up jigs daily for current projects anyway?!?
You sound like some crazed puzzlemaker, y'know? <gd&r>
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Okay, now tell us what you do to your jigs. ;-)
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
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brought forth from the murky depths:

Am I that transparent or could you tell by the bruise on my forehead that I wasn't talking about the jigs?
LJ (whose new glasses are due in tomorrow or Monday) <ww,nn,kwim?>
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