Poly over tung oil won't dry - Help!

[Mowgli]

Hoy hoy,

I'm making a jig out of pine. I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look. Two days later I glued, screwed and polyed it. Today the parts that have oil are still poly-wet. What can I use to

1) get the poly off & 2) get the oil out so I can poly the $#!+ out of it for durability?

mini-gloat - I got a good, not too used PC 7 1/4" right-side blade (I like right-side better) circ saw delivered to my house today for $25. What's a good, not too pricy all-around blade for it?

Thanks,

Mowgli

[Bay Area Dave]

it might be faster to make a new jig and burn that one!

dave

Mowgli wrote:

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Depending on the ratio, it can take a while to dry. I mixed some poly/tung/mineral sprits to try a wiping finish. Took about 3 days to set up. Try wiping it with mineral spirits? Ed

[Rumpty]

Why are you applying a finish to a jig?

[Mowgli]

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 23:17:09 GMT, Rumpty's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

Thanks for the helpful information. That'll get that dang tung oil out.

[Mowgli]

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:44:12 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

Thanks Ed, I'll try that.

Mowgli

[Chris Merrill]

Uuhhhmmmm....minimize moisture transfer...to minimize wood movement... to minimize inaccuracies in the jig introduced by wood movement...to make the jig useful after the season changes.

[Morgans]

"Mowgli" wrote >

What kind of cutting will you be doing?

[Mowgli]

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:06:09 -0400, Morgans's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

A little bit of everything, rip, c-c, plywood... I have a ts, bs, scm, chainsaw, etc..but some stuff's just too big for my small shop, it helps me to cut stuff to near the right size. Good, not too expensive all-purpose blade? Freud? 40t? ??

Mowgli

[Morgans]

For remodeling work, or when nails may get cut, B & D Piranha blades will cut though a dozen 16d nails before it is junk. Best by far.

For general work, Irwin Marathon blades are pretty good, and are readily available, and the price is right. Plywood blades, I don't have an opinion, just one with lots and lots of teeth.

[George]

If you have to resort to scrape and wipe, it's time to consider that it may be the wood itself.

Poorly resin-set pine can ooze almost forever, and no finish save shellac has a chance, because the ooze is what they distill to make turpentine. I use shellac to seal my jigs, but I make them of ply or composition material, because that gives me an automatic leg up on stability.

[Rumpty]

Make your jigs outta um let's say birch ply, you have no movement.

[Chris Merrill]

Unfortunately, my experience says otherwise.

[Rumpty]

You might consider buying a better quality ply.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

EVERY wood moves. The question is "how much?" Ed

[Rumpty]

Every wood moves regardless of finish, no? Build your jigs outta quality birch ply and any movement you won't notice. If the movement you see outta a ply jig gives you concern, your product design needs to be refined.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Correct. If it is finished it is less likely to move from moisture though, but not impossible either.

I put a finish on all of my jigs and templates just to keep them cleaner looking. If nothing else, my heirs will be able to get the full $26,000 that shops go for on eBay. Ed

[Larry Jaques]

On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:36:23 GMT, Chris Merrill pixelated:

How much does your baltic birch ply move, Chris?

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[Chris Merrill]

Enough for a 24x18 crosscut sled to wobble on the surface of my TS -- I'd guess 1/16"...maybe 1/8". It was flat when I built it.

(sorry for the late reply...been away)

[Chris Merrill]

As a follow-up...apparently I'm not the only one to have plywood jigs move over time:

(see the section titled "Why MDF?")