We have some painted holiday "mice" as a chorus created by an Uncle - very nice paintings... They are 1/4" plywood - painted.
They are showing signs of "weathering", and would like suggestions on how to keep them in great shape ??
---------- BTW - they are only outside for the holiday season...
tnx all - Hadn't thought about the "marine" aspect of coating the wood. And yeah, it's probably the edges that are allowing the water infiltration. I'll look around for some options to coat the edges, and the rest of the sides.
I use a Rust-oleum Product. Ultra Cover 2X Clear Gloss. It is in a spray can and easy to use. I make signs now and then and seal the paper or paint, or whatever with this product. john
We have some painted holiday "mice" as a chorus created by an Uncle - very nice paintings... They are 1/4" plywood - painted.
They are showing signs of "weathering", and would like suggestions on how to keep them in great shape ??
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"Mike Marlow" wrote:
----------------------------------------------------- Mike is right, the last thing you want to use is a true spar varnish.
Spar varnish NEVER completely hardens since it is designed to flex with the wooden spar when under load while sailing.
Haven't seen the signs, but if it was me, I would take some 100 grit sandpaper and sand the raw plywood edges then coat with epoxy from somebody like System 3, WEST systems, etc.
This will get you to System3.
Allow about a week and then apply marine varnish such as Epifanes available from West Marine or Jamestown Distributers which will provide the UV protection for the epoxy as well as the wood.
This will get you started.
Have fun.
Lew
Good stuff that Epifanes! I had a few old cans of Minwax 'spar varnish' that I used on some outdoor wood (only lasted a few months in the Southwest sunshine). Bought a can of the Jamestown dist. 'Epifanes' and after several years things are still peachy.
I used the System III on some wood clappers for giant wind chimes and it bit the dust after about three years. Stuff that I sprayed with clear coat automotive paint is completely unphased (gawd awful expensive nowadays though).
-Bruce
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Epoxy should be coated with a uv protectant. It will degrade if left in the sun. Generally epoxy followed by spar is a good finish, since spar has uv protection. Also I saw someone in a mag recommended the clear base from an exterior paint. It's clear until colored he said.
----------------------------------------------------- Lew Hodgett wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------- Lew Hodgett wrote:
----------------------------------------------------------- "woodchucker" wrote:
---------------------------------------------------- What part of the above post didn't you read and understand?
Lew
One could ask you the same.. why didn't you read what I wrote. I was responding to the fact that epoxy alone did not last. Which is a given since it needs a UV protectant.
Spar alone is not perfect either. The two together are very good. The spar contains the UV protectant and the epoxy keeps the piece water proof. Another thing is the spar is sacrificial, meaning it will degrade ... sand it off as it becomes chalky and re-apply. The epoxy should still be good.
The epoxy I used was for deck coating and claimed to have UV inhibitors, but then again I remember reading that a finish isn't really UV hardy unless it is opaque.
-Bruce
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_But then why do you think Epifanes worked? It's not opaque._ UV protection can be opaque, to protect the underlying surface or it can be a blocker to protect it.
Spar finish is clear, and many have UV blockers/inhibitors. This is to protect both the underlying surface and the spar.
I guess it's a matter of time. The usual suspects barely made it a year before croaking. The Epifanes ha lasted several and is still OK. The epoxy made it about three before failing.
-Bruce
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