pocket hole screws


I know there is some pocket hole screw guys out there. I don't have the Kreg tool, yet, but I've got a Taiwanese rip off. I got it from Rockler about 6 years ago. What I'm wondering is, on the good Kreg, does it leave the screw heads just a bit proud of the surface? By a bit, I'm talking 1/16th or so. I'm not really concerned about all but one piece I just did. I have to do a dado after it's assembled. No big deal as I'll just grind the screw heads flush. Just wanted to know if it's "normal" or not. TIA.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
No, the screw heads are completely below the surface. But this should be a function of where you set the stop on the drill, not the jig itself. The Kreg jig just sets the angle of drilling. They have some guidelines and measurements that are recommended but you can adjust them as you see fit. Really you are just using a stepped drill to make a slanted hole, whose position and depth are controlled by the drill stop and various spacer blocks. I used my jig for some 5/8" thick particle board and made my own spacer block out of 1/4" MDF to get it just right.
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What Bob said.
If a screw head protrudes, it's either not going in deep enough, or it is the wrong screw. The KREG people are nice enough to publish the K-3 manual on their website which spells things out quite clearly on how to set things up.... and that info is easily transferable to a knock-off jig. (It must be said that knock-off jigs have a very short life-span and in no way do the clean job of a Kreg. They're a piss-poor substitute.)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Yea, I know. That's why I was kind of wondering about the Kreg. Looks like I'm off to Woodcraft this afternoon. Thanks for all the info
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

As well with the K3 system, the screw settings and which one to use for thickness of wood is in raised lettering as part plastic case as well as printed in the included manual. I recently bought a K3 system from Lee Valley tools and I'm pretty impressed with it. Haven't built anything specific yet, but I have tried it out on the joining of a few boards and it's more solid a construction that I would have guessed from just looking at it.
The included DVD with John Sillaots building a table with drawers using the Kreg Jig goes a long way to instilling ideas of what one could build if desired.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Now waitasec..... *I* didn't get a DVD.... and I bought the K3 complete system...
Maybe Robin Lee managed to get an exclusive?
*picking up phone*
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It states right on the web page about the included DVD. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&pF270&cat=1,180,42311,46275

Maybe you haven't been spending enough at LV lately and you're being punished. Better schedule a visit right away. <g> (Psssst. Robin, can I get those free tools now?)
Drop over with some beer and I'll see what I can do for you. <g>
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'm due for a barley blow-out TO-style. 'Tis been eons. Be careful what you wish for..*EG*
Will Grolsch do?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
[snip]

bezillion pounds around the midriff as a result. (74# gone now..I can, once again, beat my way out of a wet paper bag.) I think you'll like Grolsch then...especially the third one at 8-degrees Celsius.
BTW.. did you ever shop at All-In-One in Mr. & Mrs. Sauga? http://www.allinonewood.com / Been dying to check the place out. Hot wings after.
M12V Hitachi routers for $ 249.00 CDN. That's a whole-lotta-moter for a quarter. (Our American friends are snickering in their near-beer at that BIG number..don't pay attention to them.. they're just a little envious......they're okay though..*G*)
r
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I haven't been in Mississauga for a number of years. Travel difficulties (for me anyway) make it usually not worth the bother. Although, I do hope to make the trip someday out to Hamilton and Ashman Technical for some big iron. http://www.woodworktools.com/home.html

I've got a Makita 3612BR. Supposedly rated at 3.25 hp, but those numbers are always subject to conjecture.
Email me when you're up to visit.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Upscale wrote:

I bought the K3 at a recent woodworking show and it came with a DVD on trim carpentry by a guy named Gary Striegler. It's definitely worthwhile, but I want to see the cabinet DVD as well. Would you be interested in trading?
R
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

for 1/2" stock.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Kreg does not recommend the large head screw for 1/2" stock.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Trust the answer "But this should be a function of where you set the stop on the drill, not the jig itself. "

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ok, I was thinking maybe it was the stop. I was just wanting to use the Taiwanese thing as an excuse to get a new one. So obviously the front of the jig is not set flush with the end of the workpiece then. If I move the stop up the bit enough to conceal the screw heads, then there isn't but about 1/8th" of material left for the screw to bottom out on. It's a jig setting and stop collar setting thing then. Thanks for the help guys.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nope, entire screwhead should NEVER be above the surface of the workpiece. Adjust the drill bit to drill those holes a bit deeper should fix this
John
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.