Pocket door on a hidden base cabinet?

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On Sat, 7 May 2016 02:09:12 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy

Thanks, You would think I would know that.
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On 5/6/2016 6:34 PM, OFWW wrote:

Don't feel bad, with all the doors I've built and installed, and to meet all sorts of requirements, it can still be a daunting task sorting through the myriad of hinge options.
Take it in bite sizes.
Since I often have to buy hundreds of hinges for a project, I do my research based on what is spec'ed, narrow my choices down, then buy one of each type and do a trial installation using this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#6281729188395063922
With a simple use of some scraps, you can test your samples for suitability - face frames hinges on the front, frameless casework on the back.
The ability to conveniently, and inexpensively, do a test installation on scraps gives you a real world test of installation issues, clearances and adjustability ... and therefore suitability for the project, without the danger of spending money on something unsuitable for the job.
Websites, like Blum's, also has some good general info to get you in the ballpark.
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Better idea than building an actual ff and doing it on that. :)

Think I'll start on that jig tonight after dinner, or tomorrow at the latest. Thank you.

I think I may have been overwhelmed by the time I hit Blum's last time, so I'll revisit it.
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OFWW wrote:

My kitchen doors are 3/4" thick and are 1/2" overlay. That means they stand out from the FF by 3/4" and overlap them by 1/2" on all four edges. If something is spilled on the counter top, nothing will get into the cabinet because the counter top protrudes about 1/4" more from the FF than do the cab doors. Additionally, it has a drip edge which means the bottom edge slopes upward toward the back. Water doesn't run up hill.
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On 5/7/2016 5:58 AM, dadiOH wrote:

Thought he was talking about concealed hinges causing a 3/4" thick door to stand off an additional 3/8" off the face frame when closed ... particularly noticeable on the hinge side of the door.
I do see that occasionally myself. Some hinges are worse than others with this "standoff", depending upon how many planes can be adjusted with that type/style hinge ... usually the cheaper ones are the worst offenders.
Also see it when a DIY'er has added new hinges, with different hole location requirements, to an existing door. Couple that with a limited adjustment hinge, and you they often end up with insufficient adjustment to get you where you need to be.
Looking at a run of cabinets from the side, where the doors stand off the face frame, is not pleasing to the eye.
That's another reason why I make it a practice to buy a test pair of new to me hinges so I can mount them in the shop before I buy enough for the project.
That said, IME most cabinetmakers will settle on a particular Euro concealed hinge with which they have had previous success, and are forever reluctant to get out of the comfort zone.
Unfortunately, I do too much retrofitting of existing cabinetry to have that luxury, therefore often end up in the same state of cornfusion OFFW was expressing. ;)
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Swingman wrote:

I've used many types of hinges but never the Euro type. I like full overlay doors and for those I use self closing, partial wrap hinges like these (but not necessarily Amerock)... http://amerock.com/self-closing-partial-wrap-1-2-overlay-9570.html
True, the hinge shows but I don't find that objectionable. Also true that they don't offer the range of adjustment of most Euro style hinges but I've never needed anything except up<>down and they do enough of that for me. If I were a commercial cabinet shop I might well change my mind :)
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wrote:

those hinges show, and my wife wants some that don't, except a last resort. Our hinges currently show like those, externally
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wrote:

If you were to have a light on the inside and it was on with all the doors closed, and drawers, would the light radiate from around the edges like there was another world inside it? (like the horror movies?)
I'd agree with you fully here, except you haven't met my wife. She would kill me for saying this, and she would deny everything, of course, but she is challenged when it comes to judging distances, angles, or anything associated with it.
For instance, take your counter, and drawers, she would be setting a cup on the counter half full of coffee, and would hit the edge of the counter and spill everything down the face of the cabinets. Same thing if she had a pan of water off the stove that she would put temporarily on the counter.
Even her step mom would tell you that you could put a coffee table on one wall of a gymnasium and have her walk across the gym diagonally and yet somehow she's bump into the coffee table. While she has come to grips with doing that, she still does it. LOL.
Her eyesight is fine, and I can make 3d photographs and she see's them fine, yet she appears to see anything on a flat plane in the real world.
Yes, she is a natural blond. ;)
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OFWW wrote:

Less so than if they were inset drawers :)

She could empty a 5 gallon jug of water on the counter and all would wind up on the counter or floor, none in tha cabinets or drawers. Unless there was a full gale blowing in the kitchen.
Now, if the liquid were tossed AT the face of the cabinet it could run in but only from the from the top edge; if the door/drawers were inset, it get in from the top, bottom and both sides.

Then count your blessings :)
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wrote:

I saw your hinges, those wouldn't be as severe as the others, no way.

Funny thing, as the silver/gray creeps in I think they give high lights to her hair. NOT TO HER!
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On 5/5/2016 9:44 PM, OFWW wrote:

Providing you are making face frame cabinets:
What I often do on base cabinets that are in a corner, or will obviously have clearance issues with doors and adjoining hardware, is to simply use a wider stile on the offending side.
You can use a spacer, but the wider stile gnerally solves any clearance problem nicely.
FWIW ...
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On 5/6/2016 11:48 AM, Swingman wrote:

Example of the wider center stile when I design and build a blind corner cabinet:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods#6281626474657938978
Making this stile wider gives you wiggle room, both when installing a run of base cabinets to fit a certain distance, as well as wiggle room for any extra clearance you may need for doors and drawer hardware.
This specialty cabinet was made a little different than I usually make them, but the idea is the same.
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I was thinking about incorporating the wider stile of the FF into the door itself. My kitchen is not as big as many are built now.
You can see on the rough drawings I posted in the graphics group.
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I just posted the pictures of my idea with a description, hope it is clear enough.
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OFWW wrote:

It might be if one knew where to go to look.
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wrote:

My bad, sorry. Guess I will have to join one of those picture groups. I posted it to ABPW group.
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