I'd like to get my PM 66 tuned up to precision, I've got some nice projects lined up for next year.
I just put a brand new Forrester WWII on, and am measuring 0.004" warp/runout.
The arbor runout looks okay, just shy of 0.0005.
The flange runout though is right at 0.001. In spec for PM, but more than I'd like.
Would you guys do anything about these? I could return this blade to Amazon.
Thanks for the advice, Eric
uber snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news:1104993837.836503.185610 @c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:
It's for cutting wood, Eric.
Patriarch
The FORREST blade is suppose to have less run out, but your run out might be at the arbor. Take a flat straight piece of Oak and Maple rip both and cross cut both. If the results are what you wanted or better you are good to go.
I gotta back Leon, the results are what counts.
Wasn't it kinda hard to measure runout on the flange below the table?
Anyway, not all Forrest blades are equal. A woodworking friend is ready to trade me his WWII for my Freud. He even sent it back to have it sharpended, thinking that would help. I suspect his blade is not flat.
-Dan V.
It's almost as easy as eating pie with a TS Aligner Jr. though if memory serves me I think the technique is es'plained on the video and not in the manual.
It's harder to do with a popsickle stick, floss and a crusty booger.
UA100, user of a TS Aligner Jr./gave up on the popsickle stick, floss and a crusty booger a long while ago and as always, Your Mileage May Vary...
ROTFLMAO
Terry
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